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3. Big Wall
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VMC Direct Direct T 

VMC Direct Direct 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 800', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Steve Arsenault and Sam Streibert (Jeff Burns and Hans Larsen FFA)
Season: summer/fall
Page Views: 15,182
Submitted By: andrew kulmatiski on Sep 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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BETA PHOTO: VMC Direct Direct from the ground.

Description 

Not just my favorite climb in the East, but one of my favorites anywhere. Beautiful, sustained, well-protected, exposed climbing. CLASSIC.

The route is located in the big wall section (middle-left) of the cliff. The route starts under the right end of the 200' wide roof feature half way up the cliff.

P1. Up slabby corner to top of buttress. 100' 5.7. Hope you are warmed up by this point because the climbing is hard from here on out.

P2. Work right up right-leaning dihedral to awkward mantle back to the left and up ramp. Turn back right again and get into the business - undercling an overlap to a right facing corner continue up to a bolt belay. 120' 5.10+

P3. Hard moves off the belay into the next corner, follow through and overlap (takes orange Metolius). The book calls this 5.10+ and the alternative undercling to the right a 5.10, though I find the direct route easier. 130', 5.10+

P4. Climb rotten rock to a bolt, move left to a rt-facing and the face w/ a bolt. Face climb to a corner (very difficult when wet) to bolt belay. 120' 5.9 (mentally hard).

P5. Hard friction off the anchor (5.11), or right then up (5.10R). Continue past face traversing left to shallow dihedral and slabs w/a small overlap. 5.11

P6. Climb through blocky headwall, moving right then up a shallow lt-facing corner to slabs. Continue w/poor protection to the cow's mouth.

P7. Hard, wild undercling out the right side of the roof (there are great holds above the lip - have faith). 5.10+
P8and9) easy slabs to summit.


Location 

In the big wall section in the middle of the cliff. Starts about 50' left of a huge roof that is about 80' off the ground on the right edge of the big wall section.


Protection 

I don't recall needing a #3, but it would be good to bring at least one. Small to medium nut placements abound. Wires and an orange metolius are critical for the third pitch.



Photos of VMC Direct Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Climbers on the Big Wall of Cannon Cliff - view from Whitney Gilman Ridge.
Climbers on the Big Wall of Cannon Cliff - view fr...
p2 crux
p2 crux
Third pitch dihedral after all the funkiness. Photo by Converse Fields.
Third pitch dihedral after all the funkiness. Phot...
End of 3rd pitch. Photo by Converse Fields.
End of 3rd pitch. Photo by Converse Fields.
p2 crux
p2 crux
VMC DD
VMC DD
yann gauthier on pitch 3
yann gauthier on pitch 3
Comments on VMC Direct Direct Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 8, 2014
By paulmadry
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

P6. Climb through blocky headwall, moving right then up a shallow lt-facing corner to slabs. Continue w/poor protection to the cow's mouth.

The description from Rock Climbing New England (S. Green) Pitch 6: A long, scary lead with dubious protection and tricky crux. Surmount a steep headwall (5.10) and climb a left-facing corner to easier slabs above to belay in the Cow’s Mouth.

Can you give me beta on the "scary lead with dubious protection" Any recent Beta???

Thanks a lot
Paul

By Joe Vitti
Aug 19, 2009

On P6 we climbed right from belay under roof and up a short left facing corner, two not great pins here and nothing else I could find. Next traverse left a bit and clip another pin just over lip and over into shallow right facing corner. This section is hard and daring. Next move up and right heading towards the right side of a massive tottering pillar which seems like it should fall off any moment now. Gear is challenging through this section and we tried to stay off the pillar as much as possible. From even with the pillar go up and right to the belay in left side of cow's mouth.

Note that the climbing after the 5.11 slab moves on P5 is engaging with not the best gear. 5 and 6 are heady pitches.

Also, we did two full rope length pitches directly above the cow's mouth and they were challenging with long runouts, route finding, wet slippery mossy sections, grass hummock clawing....oh and lots black flies. Not the "easy slabs" we were expecting.

Keep right through the krumholtz along the top of cliff and look for the big square "heli pad", a good trail passes along the south/east corner of it which leads down around to the base.

This is a hard route and is not the place for the average 5.10 leader.

By J. Nickel
Sep 14, 2009

We did the first four pitches yesterday with the straight up variation on the third pitch. The route is fantastic. Beautiful thin crack and corner climbing.
We had 2 ropes for rappelling, but it looked to me like a single 70M rope would get you down.
Bring RP's and wires and many finger sized cams. I don't think that we placed anything bigger than a green Camalot on the route.

By christopher adams
Feb 26, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Pitch 5 is hard.

By paulmadry
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Thanks for the beta. It helped. I did VMC DD July 2010. The pitch 6th of VMC is still Quite scary although climbing is easier. You can stretch pitch 5 through overlap and then move left to a new bolted belay. Then do the rest of old pitch 6th together with pitch 7th. Cows mouth was the crux for me. It is probably easier for people with smaller hands-you can place them fully into the crack. I highly recommend taping just for that move. Move right after Cows mouth to find a rap station. You can rap the route without the last 5.6 crappy pitches full of black flies.

By Sean Kurnas
May 10, 2012

Thanks for all of your comments, they provided some crucial info for my and my friend's ascent. Joe Vitti's description is a pretty accurate account of our experience on this climb. The first 4 pitches were beautiful, great climbing, and went way too fast. The following 5 pitches (or 6? who knows) were slow going, with loose rock, wet sections, and difficult routefinding. The two or three pitches we did after the cow's mouth were runout on sketchy rock, with no real landmarks.

If I were to do it again I would almost certainly rap off the 4th pitch... maybe even climb them again.

(Disclaimer - I haven't lead this route yet, only followed)

By Rich Brereton
From: Somerville, MA
Sep 29, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Best route in the East.
Would have been happier with two green aliens or the like for the second pitch instead of just the one.
Also, going right then up at the start of P5 looked very unlikely. Going straight up was very hard and reachy but only for a couple of moves until you reach a nice horizontal break.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2012

Rich-- your ready for Lab Wall direct finish.....

By RBeers
Aug 4, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

A classic NH sandbag

By Will Stat
Oct 20, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I strongly recommend bringing double ropes if you have them. It made the wandering second pitch effortless (at least in terms of rope drag) and allows you to get down in two raps from the top of P4.

I feel compelled to add that this route is amazing... it could give any yosemite climb of the same grade a run for its money. Honestly though, pitch 2 would most likely check in around 11b at many other areas. The straight up variation on the 3rd pitch felt pretty cruiser, I wouldn't recommend going right.

If it's within your abilities it shouldn't be missed!

By stephen arsenault
Oct 24, 2013

Will,

Glad you liked the route. I've done the route many times, and just repeated it a few weeks ago.

If you have real fat fingers, like me, I think the second pitch could be in the 5.11 class, but the 3rd pitch is definitely still 10+.

At 67, I generally don't get up 5.11 clean, and still manage the steller 3rd pitch O.K. Just my 2 cents opinion.

Bringing 2 ropes is a good idea if you intend to rap.

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Nov 16, 2013

Good lad Steve .. Pleased your still at it ..

By Will Stat
Dec 19, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Agreed, Steve. Perhaps my wording was unclear (now revised). I thought the second pitch felt like 11- and the third was a fairly straightforward 10 crux into an endurance section where the dihedral gets steeper, making it feel like 10+. Its nice there are some fixed pieces up near the top of the corner where you start to feel gassed. The right variation on p3, supposedly easier at 10-, looked harder, although it has a couple convenient shiny bolts.

Numbers aside, its a great route. I wouldn't recommend it for the inexperienced, though.

Another note - Steve, I had the pleasure of meeting you at the barber wall in late October and its great to see you're still cranking! I forgot you put up VMC DD or I would've asked to hear your account of the FA!

By patrick donahue
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Mar 6, 2014

I'm wondering, are you allowed to bivy on the big wall, because I know you are not allowed at cathedral. I am wondering this just so I can get used to bivying on walls for some up coming plans to go to Yosemite.

By Glenn Cilley
From: Laconia, NH
Mar 8, 2014

No camping in Franconia Notch State Park except at Lafayette Campground. But I don't think anyone will bother you on the wall, have fun!