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Vivesection 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: pete cleveland first TR and probably lead as well
Page Views: 2,006
Submitted By: Chris treggE on Mar 23, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Isaac Therneau starting Vivisection. Sept 09.

Description 

A thin bouldery start leads one into an alcove which yields scant protection opportunities. The mental crux is committing to hard moves to leave the safety of a good stance in a trough onto the thin vertical face above. This route protects reasonably well and is quite sustained until high up where it slabs out. A bold onsight lead.

Protection 

wires.etc


Photos of Vivesection Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Isaac Therneau on Vivisection.  Sept 09.
Isaac Therneau on Vivisection. Sept 09.
Rock Climbing Photo: Isaac Therneau in the crux of Vivisection.  Sept 0...
Isaac Therneau in the crux of Vivisection. Sept 0...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rhoads at the start, before the dog jack-assery.
Rhoads at the start, before the dog jack-assery.
Rock Climbing Photo: over the roof with a few thin pieces
over the roof with a few thin pieces
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful climb, Vivisection, climbing Isaac Thern...
Beautiful climb, Vivisection, climbing Isaac Thern...
Rock Climbing Photo: CE flashing Vivisection on a beautiful fall day, S...
CE flashing Vivisection on a beautiful fall day, S...
Rock Climbing Photo: High up on Vivisection, climber Isaac Therneau, Se...
High up on Vivisection, climber Isaac Therneau, Se...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rhoads at the beginning, just before the doggy fun...
Rhoads at the beginning, just before the doggy fun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Flashing Vivisection on a beautiful fall day, Sept...
Flashing Vivisection on a beautiful fall day, Sept...
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost through the hard stuff.
Almost through the hard stuff.

Comments on Vivesection Add Comment
Show which comments
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 28, 2006

Another must do on the wall... Start in overhang/dihedral with underclings and a crimp on the left. Some strenuous moves will lead to easier climbing after the roof, though still sustained. The gear is very thin, or very spaced. A set of RPs wouldn't hurt, though larger pieces pop up now and then.
By CurtisG
Aug 24, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Gear is spaced AND thin. Bring all your small stuff and don't expect relief until entirely after the roof. Then get what you can in and finish up on the vertical crack systems with some thiner face holds. Good climb that stays in the 5.10 range for a good 45 feet of climbing and another 40ft of easier ledges to the tippy top.
By Tradoholic
May 15, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

On my on-sight some FIBS dog came around the corner as I was 15ft up without gear yet and tangled his ass up in the rope.

My belayor: "WHO'S FUCKING DOG IS THIS?!?!!?"

FIB: "THAT'S MY FUCKING DOG!".

My belayor: "HE ALMOST PULLED MY BUDDY OFF THIS!"

FIB: "NO HE FUCKING DIDN'T!"

Witness': "Ummm....yea, he almost did."

FIB: Silence......

From now on I will be giving Jedi mind control lessons at DL every Saturday ;)
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 18, 2010

Ya, that was some crazy shit. One damn good reason to keep your dog on a leash at the crag, or just leave it home for that matter. Crag dogs are great and all, but shit......
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
May 18, 2010

Just when you think you've got all the risks under control ...

Nick on lead: "Dude! Give me some slack! I can't make this clip!."

Belayer: "Woof!"
By Dmitriy Litvak
From: Pacifica, CA
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

If you cannot onsight 5.11a at the lake, check the gear before you go.
Might save you an ankle or more. Gear is really tricky at the start.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 29, 2011

I think Pete Cleveland probably did the first lead as well. Anyone ?
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 4, 2015

Chris please turn this one loose to someone else for the description it deserves better. Thanks

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