Vitamin-N 5.8+
| 2,513 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Mabe |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Darren Mabe on Jan 1, 2005 |
| |
Brian Rolfson, around the 1st crux, movin L.
Add Photo Printer View
Description This is located left of Mounty. Climb a couple of devious slab moves reach a left traversing big flake. Easy climbing to steep and positive face climbing close to the left arete. One can TR Mounty from these anchors*. Lower about 100' back to the ledge.
- Also can continue up and right to the top of Aries anchors to access the Contra ledge. #1 Camalot may be nice to make this transition.
Protection UPDATE: 9 QDs, two bolt lowering anchor. Belay in the same spot for Mounty (by the small juniper), single bolt or gear for the belay: #2 Camalot and a clever blue TCU (in lower pocket).
BETA PHOTO: Vitamin N. Belay by a little juniper tree@SEMICOL...
| Peter Dillon at the start of the undercling traver...
| Peter Dillon at the thin slab move by the second b...
| Looking down from anchors.
| | |
By Richard M. Wright From: Lakewood, CO Jul 29, 2004 rating: 5.9
| Still needs a bit of brushing, but the entry moves under the flake are a kick. N.B.: I did pull off several small flakes in the headwall below the last bolt, so some of the rock is a bit friable up here. Overall, this is a nice moderate addition. |
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 10, 2005 rating: 5.8+
| It felt stiff for 8+ if you go straight up between bolts 7&8. More like 8+ if you skirt out L around the arete & then up. A finger-sized cam may be nice in case the move to the 3rd bolt spooks ya, may be better than bailing & leaving a biner. |
By ????? Jun 5, 2005 rating: 5.9
| Good route, I agree on the fun bottom moves. Also, exited to the left near the top, which I am sure was harder if you took it straight on. Fun. Please be on the lookout for possible raptor nest above Lunchmoney. I witnessed a large hawk landing and taking off briefly from an area above the anchors for Lunchmoney 5.9. |
By Darren Mabe From: Flagstaff, AZ Jun 6, 2005 rating: 5.8+
| This little line was always intended to milk the left arete at the top to keep the difficulty consistent with the rest of the route. The last bolt on the face keeps the rope running straight. Don't make things harder than they need to be.... |
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Jul 18, 2005 rating: 5.9
| A fun route with varied climbing. The thin slab move past the second bolt was the crux for me. There's a good spot for a red Alien after this to protect the start of the undercling traverse to the left. The traverse is airy and easier than it looks. I went all the way around to the left side of the arete near the top; this was the easiest line. You can use #1 and #2 Camalots in a horizontal crack for a belay anchor at the start by the little juniper tree. |
By Walldahl From: Golden, CO Jul 25, 2006 rating: 5.9-
| I think this climb should get another star...it's a great climb and is now all clean and very secure. Comparing this to other Clear Creek Canyon routes, I’ve climbed 5.9s and 5.10s that felt easier. However, compared to climbs elsewhere, it’s right there in the 5.8+ range. The crux for me was the section getting to the second bolt. The undercling traverse past the second bolt was really cool and not hard once you committed to the first moves of getting your feet up. |
By Randy Carmichael From: Boulder, CO Jun 11, 2007 rating: 5.9
| This climb has it all: slab, mantle, undercling, layback, crimp and face. Be sure to bring a #1 and #2 to anchor your belayer. |
By Jeff Welch From: Thornton, CO May 19, 2008
| The move to gain the flake past the second bolt would be significantly harder than 5.8 IMO if you're shorter than 5'9" or so. |
By slim Jul 29, 2010 rating: 5.8+
| Kind of surprised that nobody has mentioned the crater potential getting to the 2nd bolt. I found this to be the crux of the route and had a hard time finding a good 100% stance to clip from. I somehow ended up a little down and right of the bolt and couldn't reach it without over-extending on the sloping feet. Blowing it here would not be a good thing. Clipping the 3rd bolt was interesting also. The only good position I could find seemed to be something that would be encountered on a 5.10 route. Maybe I was missing something. I'm a bit rusty after not climbing for a few months, so maybe that had something to do with it. After climbing the route, my comment to my wife was something like "seemed like a 5.8 with 5.10 clipping", somewhat similar to Kirkadirka's comment above. |
By Ben Cassedy From: Denver, CO Jul 29, 2010 rating: 5.9
| I'm with Slim. Just climbed this thing today and didn't like the spacing between the first two bolts. Wouldn't recommend for a 5.8 leader, especially as I found the first two bolts to be the crux areas. Also be aware that it's something like 8 bolts and 90 feet, with plenty of ledge action thrown in. With that said, it was a super fun route. The little undercling traverse at the 3rd bolt was a blast. |
By Darren Mabe From: Flagstaff, AZ Aug 15, 2010 rating: 5.8+
| Slim, pm sent. I will add a bolt above the first when I get a chance. |
By slim Aug 16, 2010 rating: 5.8+
| Wiledhorse, sent a reply. That ought to make a good route into a superb route. |
By Darren Mabe From: Flagstaff, AZ Aug 16, 2010 rating: 5.8+
| This afternoon, a bolt fairy came and added a bolt above the first one to protect the slab, and moved the existing second bolt up a bit, as you get to the undercling flake. This now protects better for the grade. Total bolt count is now 9 protection bolts. Also added is a belay bolt near the juniper tree that serves as a belay for Vitamin-N, Mounty, and Aries. True there are existing gear placement options, for anyone that actually brings gear to this area. Either way, it is just good habit to anchor in on the exposed ledges, eh? First one up there gets a complimentary biner on the 4th bolt. |
By slim Aug 18, 2010 rating: 5.8+
| Thanks for the hard work in the canyon, Darren. Looking forward to doing this route again some time. |
By Ryan Tuleja From: Arvada, CO Apr 30, 2011
| Climbed this route yesterday. Seemed pretty clean and unclimbed. This thing deserves some traffic! |
By Brewster Jun 15, 2011
| Overall a fun route. I suck at slab and therefore found the bottom difficult. Be sure to move right after clipping the second bolt. Now that I know the beta, it feels like a 8+/9 climb. However, it definitely felt harder than 8/9 the first time. |
By keith story From: Boulder, CO Oct 6, 2011 rating: 5.8
| The top crux is relatively difficult (5.10?) if you go straight up it. Go to the left if you want 5.8 climbing. |
By tom303 From: Colorado Jun 22, 2012 rating: 5.9
| It's pleasant to run into a sandbagged climb in Clear Creek to keep you on your toes. The lower slabs felt like the crux and required zig-zagging. |
By Hiro From: Boulder, CO Jul 20, 2012
| Ha ha, 5.8+, really? Yes, there are holds everywhere. Except on the lower slab portion which might stop a new climber completely in their tracks. Then there's the roof you need to go under or over, spicy! Fun route, highly recommended to lead if you normally lead unbagged 5.9. Not recommended if you're looking for an easy beginner lead - look elsewhere for that, not on this wall. |
By Alex A Aug 28, 2012 rating: 5.9+
| Fun climb, but damn what a sandbag at the start 5.8+ my ass, led a lot 5.10s that are easier. |
|