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When approaching the Visions Wall, the most dramatic arete of this cliff juts out overhead, extending above the tree tops. The route is primarily a sport climb but has some crucial gear between the 4th and 5th bolts.
Start the route by crimping past 4 bolts to a good rest (5.10). The first part of the route is just steep enough to be interesting but the overhanging fun begins after placing a #2 and 3 camalot in the right leaning, juggy crack. Take your time to place good gear as a fall from just below the next bolt could result in a deck fall without the gear. After placing your pieces and grabbing a rest in the "pod", launch up the arete and face just to the right. Around the 8th bolt, either stay on the arete for the full value 5.12 version or climb about 3 feet to the right for the 11d. At the last bolt, move back left as the arete ends at an 18" ledge with a three bolt anchor. This route really shines after the gear placements where you will encounter an unrelenting, overhanging wall with featured rock and mostly positive holds.
Vision of Impalement is located on the right side of the main arete, which is the first formation you will come across as the trail hits the crag.
11 bolts with a #2 and #3 camalot or equivalent. 3 bolt anchor.
Following Visions of Impalement 11d. FUN!!
|By Paul "Disaster Master"Humphrey|
Dec 2, 2007
This one's a personal favoite. It oly has one section of gear, though, so I call the style "T-Rad".
...and don't forget its shorter neighbor on the left side of this prow, called "Smack Daddy", 5.11d-ish.
Jun 2, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Not R-rated if you bring gear. #2 and #3 camalot work well between 4th and 5th bolts. Probably the best mid-grade route at the Aretes.