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Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 
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To Bolt Or Not To Be S 
Vision S 
Watts Totts S 
Wedding Day S 

Vision 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Colin Lantz 4/88
Page Views: 2,181
Submitted By: Ryan Palo on Oct 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Vision follows the left arete, Go Dog, Go! follows...
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A great arete route despite bad rock to start. Climb 20 feet of poor rock, clip the first bolt and move out onto the face. Tackle some easy face climbing and move out onto the arete. Slap, pinch, and palm your way through the first crux (around bolt 4), move onto the left face and milk a great rest in large incut pockets. Begin the second crux directly above. It involves some tricky pocket sequences. Move back onto the face and run to the anchors. The final 30 ft is fairly easy, however a good pump could send you packing.


Location 

Furthest route left in the dehidrals. Take the Prophet wall path to it.


Protection 

Eight bolts, two bolt anchor`



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By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 31, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This route is awesome. If you like 5.12 arete climbing, you absolutely have to do this route. Many cool sequences split by great rests.

By Scott W
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 21, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Harder than Go dog go I thought...the crux uses a tiny crimp that I can barely get 3 fingers on.

By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
Feb 13, 2013

Found a great way to do the crux for me on top rope only to realize that the rope is RIGHT in front of the foot I used when on lead. All the hard moves seen to be when you're moving from the right face to the left. Crux is very well protected but everywhere else is spaced enough to keep you on your toes.