This is kind of a sporty route, as far as climbing with gear goes. Little bit everything on this one from a hand jam, to finger slots, to not-so-obvious stemming to friction. It doesn't look like much from the ground, but it climbs well. Ascend using availability of whatever presents itself: a crack that opens up for one piece of pro and then turns into a seam to smear; or stem in the flared chimney; or treat it like a face route; or lie back off weird edges. Or all of the above. If you're the kind of climber that snobs at things if they're not Indian Creek type of climbing, then stay away from this climb, I'd hate to hear you whine. If you're the type of climber that likes to climb for the sake of experience, versatility and simple fun, then put on those shoes and put this baby up. If you're sly, on the way down Visible Panty Line, set up a top-rope on High Over Datura next to it. Although the TR of this face might not be worth it to you unless you are willing to try 5.11+ friction and balance. It's a humbling and a learning experience.
Mostly TCUs and stoppers. Actually, I probably only slotted one nut. One friend for down lower, don't remember which size, but you can tell from the ground what you'll need. One quickdraw for a piton at the crux.
|Comments on Visible Panty Line
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
May 31, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Easy for the grade.