Visceral Pull resides on the North face of Neptune, before you arrive at the Red Wall proper. It is a long pitch that was established from the ground up over several trips to the Reef, thanks to efforts and tutelage from Andy, Geir, and Eric.
Starting in the right of the two left-facing dihedrals, a super aesthetic tree stem followed by an easy but committing move deposits you at a flake. Toss in a piece and put your game face on.
The next 25 feet takes you through the burly, sequential, and improbable-looking crux. This section has hard climbing above both bolts and gear, and involves a leftward traverse that puts you under a roof corner. The corner weakness manifests itself as a beautiful finger crack on the face above. Once the crack peters out, a good rest allows you to contemplate pulling the wild roof. The remaining 40 feet above the roof is much easier (5.7ish) climbing and was taken up to a large ledge in hopes that a 2nd pitch will go up the orange arete.
The anchor is 2 bolts with quicklinks and biners, 70 M rope required, and you probably want to knot the end. It can be cleaned by the climber being lowered, but it takes some effort and would be smoother if a second is belayed up and cleans on the way.
North face of Neptune, right of Kem's Way and left of Jimmy Dean. Look for 2 consecutive left facing small dihedrals, each with 2 bolts. (starts up right one).
5 bolts, stoppers (incl. little), cams from small to #1 BD, probably doubles from micro to big fingers, handful of long slings.
Most of the route
Geir at the crux of the route.
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 22, 2013
Congrats on sending this hard trad line and for a terrific ground up effort Clay!
Let me be the first to say Clay is crazy. He drilled from wacky hook and beak placements and got in gear from very difficult stances. He took multiple falls on horizontally placed small cams and made some bold moves where falls would have been long. It was impressive to put it mildly!
This climb also has one of the funniest-looking moves I have ever seen on a climb, a cross between a beached whale and thrusting, dangling right leg movements that is just hilarious to watch.
A great climb. I can't wait to get back on it.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Aug 22, 2013
Just call it 12. It might be 12- for those of less attractive stature but for the rest of us we will have to pull harder and reach a bit farther. It was fun being there for the hooking and sending.