Buzzard Rocks makes for a great day or weekend adventure. The cliff faces West and you get full exposure to the valley below. If you're going to climb in the summer, mornings are the best suggestion. The face will stay cool for you until early afternoon. If you're going to climb in the winter you need to stick with afternoons and evenings. The great exposure to the sun will keep you warm and keep you climbing. There are around 25 registered routes, nothing that goes above 5.10. That makes this a great area for new leaders and weekend warriors. Bring a light rack and set of quick draws. Most climbs are bolted with a few exceptions. Bring your own water, it will be a long walk back to the car if you run out.
Getting There
From the East- Take I-66 West to Route 55 West towards Front Royal. Stay on 55 West until the town of Waterlick. Turn left onto Powells Fort Road (Route 678). Drive about 1.2 miles on 678 then turn left onto Mountain Road (Route 619). You will pass a fish hatchery. Stay on the road for 1.2 miles. You will come to a Buzzard Rock trailhead parking lot on the right. Pay attention cause it's easy to miss. After parking follow the hiker sign and begin the two mile hike to Buzzard Rock. Follow the white trail blaze.
When you reach the top of the ridge, there is a trail that descends to the right. This is the cliff base trail. It isn't well defined, but it is very easy to follow. If you miss the trail you can rap down to it from any number of trees on the ridge.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buzzard Rocks:
I hiked up there for the first time yesterday-awesome crag with a lot of potential for additional routes, both Trad/sport/mixed. A note about the base trail-once you make the big turn at the North facing overlook just continue up the ridge. Go about 4-500 yards and keep an eye out on the right for the view to clear--up until this point it has just been trees and hilly terrain. When the right side of the hill begins to drop away, then you have reached the first climbable rock. You will see the trail drop down on the right of it. Follow this a short way down hill where you will see the right facing corner which is the route '3 Amigos'. Just to the right of it is a lone bolt on the slab-This is a 5.8 unknown route. Don't know about the left-facing corner just beside this. To the right of this is pulp friction. Saw a bald eagle on the approach up, all in all a great day!
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