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Virginia 


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Lat, Long: 37.6142, -78.5083 Map
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Administrators: Aaron James Parlier, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Aug 23, 2006

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Aaron Parlier on "Horizon Line" GHSP

Description 

Virginia is for lovers; and as climbers we are all lovers of quality stone to pull on. Whether it is trad, mixed, sport, or bouldering that you are looking for, the Old Dominion state has a whole lotta’ stone just lookin’ for love…

Spring is here; Although VA’s Appalachian crags and boulder fields are still getting periodical snow showers, there are plenty of warm weather locations where a fine line is easy to find. Scroll through the 2,500+ listed VA routes and problems and chalk up on some of the best rock in the state. Warm weather is just around the corner!

Check out Great Falls, Old Rag, and Elizabeth Furnace for lots of fun and exciting Trad and TR routes. These fine areas, along with most of the other trad and TR areas in VA are generally located in gorgeous parks and unique settings. Keep watch for many other areas that are being established across the Old Dominion.

Also check out Iron Gate for some great sport routes and Roanoke River Gorge for fun sport, mixed, and trad lines.

There are multitudes of quality bouldering opportunities across Virginia. There are several high quality boulder fields, great local areas, and small obscure spots scattered throughout the state. Mcafees Knob has tons of great bouldering and The Cascades is an up-and-coming favorite. For the absolute best bouldering experience in VA be sure to visit Grayson Highlands State Park.

Also, if you are traveling to VA and want to go bouldering but dont want to lug a crashpad and all of your junk with you, GHSP now has a rental pad, chalk, chalkbag, and brush for rent!


Guidebook 

-The Horst guide, "Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland" is a great reference for popular VA destinations like Old Rag and Great Falls.

-Be sure to pick up the PATC Great Falls book for more routes and info on the area. Also available for sale at the visitor's center.
www.potomacmountainclub.org/content/view/83/115/

-Also, be on the lookout for the up and coming full color bouldering guidebook for Grayson Highlands State Park.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Virginia:
Highland Highball   V2     Boulder, 20 feet   Horizon Area : Highland Highball
Periscope   V3     Boulder, 12 feet   Contact Station Area : Periscope Boulder
True Grit   V5     Boulder, 10 feet   Contact Station Area : True Grit Boulder
Front Man   V5     Boulder    A.V.P. Boulders : A.V.P. Boulder
Thews    V6     Boulder, 11 feet   Middle Boneyard : Thews Boulder
Horizon Line   V6     Boulder, 20 feet   Horizon Area : Horizon Boulder
Midnight Reverie Traverse Project   V12     Boulder, 15 feet   Middle Boneyard : Reverie Block
Romeo's Ladder   5.6     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35 feet   Great Falls : Romeo's Ladder
Anonymous Flake Right   5.8-     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Elizabeth Furnace : Buzzard Rocks
I Love Big Jugs   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall
The Dobie Gillis Route   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Old Rag : Skyline Wall (PATC Wall)
Strawberry Fields   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Old Rag : Reflector Oven
Fortis   5.10a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall
Big Balls   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall
Lost Arrow   5.10     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35 feet   Great Falls : Aid Box
Bushwhack Crack   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Old Rag : Wall That Dreams Are Made O...
Leading Should Feel This Way   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Elizabeth Furnace : Talking Headwall
Report to Sickbay   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Old Rag : Reflector Oven
Oh My God Dihedral   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Old Rag : Middle God's Area-Left
The The   5.13a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Old Rag : Wall That Dreams Are Made O...
Browse More Classics in Virginia

Featured Route For Virginia
Photo of The Seance

The Seance V9  VA : AVO : The Seance Area
Stand start on small slab below the overhaning right leaning dihedral with left hand on a sideup and right hand on right-leaning, sloping rail. Climb the sloping rail to a crimp out right, then work your way into the dihedral and straight up. The line hasn't been climbed in years. Bring your brush. This is an absolutely phenomenal line. It inherits its name from the odd, Arabic/mystic grafitti inside the cave....[more]   Browse More Classics in VA


Photos of Virginia Slideshow Add Photo
Grayson Highlands Bouldering. Aaron Parlier getting his burly on with a new (V-5?) called "Down Tempo" in the Boneyard Area, GHSP.

Grayson Highlands Bouldering. Aaron Parlier gettin...

Grayson Highlands Bouldering. Shane Messer working a (V-7) dyno problen in the Boneyard, GHSP.

Grayson Highlands Bouldering. Shane Messer working...

Grayson Highlands Bouldering. Lanie Alfaro on a perfect GHSP crimp.

Grayson Highlands Bouldering. Lanie Alfaro on a pe...

Grayson Highlands Bouldering. Lanie on "Robot Love" (V-1) in the Boneyard, GHSP.

Grayson Highlands Bouldering. Lanie on "Robot Love...

Grayson Highlands Bouldering. Jason in 2004 with the FA of a GHSP test piece and classic, "True Grit" (V-5). Contact Station, GHSP.

Grayson Highlands Bouldering. Jason in 2004 with t...

Steve Lovelace cranking hard to get the FA of "Reverie" (V-6) on the Reverie Block, Boneyard Area, GHSP.

Steve Lovelace cranking hard to get the FA of "Rev...

kasi Quinn on "Cherokee Dihedral" (V-1), Rock House Boulder, Olympus, Grayson Highlands State Park, Va

kasi Quinn on "Cherokee Dihedral" (V-1), Rock Hous...

Aaron Parlier on "Thews" (v6) in the boneyard area in Grayson Highlands State Park, Virginia

Aaron Parlier on "Thews" (v6) in the boneyard area...

Joanna Jennings on "Ranger Rick" (V-1) in Grayson Highlands State Park Virginia

Joanna Jennings on "Ranger Rick" (V-1) in Grayson ...

Aaron Parlier snow-sending the FA of "Tech-Tonic" (V6) at the Contact Area in Grayson Highlands State Park, Virginia

Aaron Parlier snow-sending the FA of "Tech-Tonic" ...

"Parlier's Problem" (v7) in the AVP Area in Grayson Highlands State Park Virginia

"Parlier's Problem" (v7) in the AVP Area in Grayso...

Travis Melin climbing the "Horizon Line" (v5) in the Highlands Area, Grayson Highlands State Park, Virginia

Travis Melin climbing the "Horizon Line" (v5) in t...

Travis Melin taking it all in on the "Highland Highball" (v2) in the Highlands Area, GHSP, Va

Travis Melin taking it all in on the "Highland Hig...

Grayson Highlands Bouldering. Travis Melin with getting another FA while bouldering in the Listening Rock Area.

Grayson Highlands Bouldering. Travis Melin with ge...

Steve Lovelace making moves in GHSP

Steve Lovelace making moves in GHSP

Fall foliage at Sugar Hollow dam....oh yeh, and a boulder.

BETA PHOTO: Fall foliage at Sugar Hollow dam....oh yeh, and a ...

Inside of the Cracked Egg

Inside of the Cracked Egg

Aaron James Parlier boulderbiking on the Virginia Creeper Trail

Aaron James Parlier boulderbiking on the Virginia ...

Aaron James Parlier boulderbiking the Virginia Creeper trail, and riding across one of the many trestle bridges along the trail...

Aaron James Parlier boulderbiking the Virginia Cre...

Aaron James Parlier bouldering on one of several fun creekside boulders along the Virginia Creeper Trail.

Aaron James Parlier bouldering on one of several f...

Aaron James Parlier on one of many fun bouldering stops along the Virginia Creeper Trail. Boulderbiking at its best...

Aaron James Parlier on one of many fun bouldering ...

Happiness Is Slavery, Irongate.

Happiness Is Slavery, Irongate.


Comments on Virginia Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 21, 2012
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 22, 2007

Check out this climbing video from rockclimbing.com featuring climbing in Virginia.

By JonathanGerst
From: Morocco, Africa
Dec 2, 2009

Info request for Tunstall's Tooth in Big Island, VA. Route information? Sport, trad, mixed, or TR? Topo maps? Contact info for official or unofficial crag caretaker?

By S.Mccabe
From: boulder, co
Dec 17, 2009

I will be passing through VA this weekend. Is there any climbing near or within an hour of Lynchburg?

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Dec 17, 2009

I believe there is, but it looks like its supposed to be a snow storm from friday night into saturday so your outdoor chances are slim.... Good thing there is a great gym in lynchburg!

By VirginiaS
From: boulder,co
Feb 6, 2010

I've just moved to Northern Virginia for a few months and was hoping to get some information about climbing in the area, maybe even some ice this winter? I've just moved from Boulder and am hoping to find some people to climb with and until the snow melts, a good gym in the area around Shenandoah National park. Any information would be seriously appreciated. Thanks!

By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Mar 13, 2010

Hi VirginiaS. If you're close enough to Sportrock in Alexandria you have to go there. Its fantastic

By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Oct 14, 2010

bigdan:

Sorry I’m so late about getting back to you about GHSP. The dry time at Grayson is usually about a day. The park tends to have its own weather pattern, but Weatherchannel.com is usually right about the conditions out there. The Listening rock trail dries in approximately one day, the Boneyard area can be stubborn to dry and takes around a day-two days, the highlands area can dry in much less than a day if its breezy... contact station area takes around a day as well.
-Aaron Parlier

By Andrew Cassidy
Feb 14, 2011

Does anyone have any beta on Apple Orchard Falls. I saw bolts there before I was a climber when I was backpacking a couple of years ago?!?

By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Mar 17, 2011

Andrew Cassidy:
I tried looking the place up and I could only find hiking and waterfall information. I for one have never heard of it, but from the photos online Im sure someone has established lines there. Looks like a cool spot... I would take to the local gear shop or the closest gym for information. Good luck, and if you do find out info on the place be sure to post it on here!

By Steve C
From: Missoula, MT
Sep 9, 2011

Andrew: I also saw two bolted lines on a north-facing cliff on the trail between the parkway and Apple Orchard Falls. Looked like quality routes; 5.10-5.12 range. Always meant to get back there and try them before I moved away from VA. I say go get on 'em and let us know how they are!

By Philip McAfee
Dec 24, 2011

How did McAfee Knob get its name

By Matt L
Feb 28, 2012

Be on the lookout for an awesome gym opening in the Christiansburg/Blacksburg area! Crimper's Climbing Gym is located at 100 Central Ave, Christiansburg Va, 24073. The bouldering wall stretches 70 feet horizontally and reaches 16 feet above the padding. There are seven top rope stations around the tower ranging from overhanging to slab climbing. the lead cave starts seven feet below the floor level, giving 30 feet of lead climbing.

This gym is sweet, everyone in the area should come check it out once they open in early April. You can get more info at www.crimpersclimbing.com or email at info@crimpersclimbing.com

Get excited!

By Mike Mu.
Mar 21, 2012

So I have been tossing around the idea for a few years of doing a comprehensive Rock & Ice climbing guidebook for VA. VA doesn't have a great guidebook for all the stuff that exists there. The Watson guide is subpar and the Horst book while nice skipped a lot of areas. I was thinking of focusing only on roped climbing-including all of the excellent bouldering would take a lifetime to finish. Just wanted to probe the interest of fellow MP'ers that climb in VA-is this something you would be interested in using? What format would you want to see--color photos with route lines drawn in, topos, etc? Obviously SNP/BRP and the National Forests will be the meat of the guide, but are there other areas you would want to see?

By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Mar 21, 2012

Mike you should go for it! Shoot me a message sometime before you get underway. Sometime before you get too involved in the formal structure of the guide. There is an area I'd like to talk to you about that would be important to include for sure. The guide sounds like a great idea!