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9. Sun Wall (Long Slabs)
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Virgin Suicides 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,134
Submitted By: Paul Shultz on Nov 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Cheater rest trying to figure out the crux, 6 bolt...

Description 

2 pitches in length.

Semi-hanging belay at both anchors.

Enjoyable in late fall, winter and early spring. Probably to hot in summer.

Location 

Route farthest right when facing the wall.

Protection 

As many draws as you've got, as well as anchor materials.

Wear helmets! lots of loose stuff that comes off the top.

Can be just barely rapped from the top anchors with a 70 M rope. Otherwise 2 raps will be required.


Photos of Virgin Suicides Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Virgin Suicides
Virgin Suicides
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch complete
First pitch complete

Comments on Virgin Suicides Add Comment
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By Jeffrey West
From: Anywhere, USA
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Lots of fun. A little sketchy at bolt 6-8, but really worth it. We went up with 10 draws and the lead climber had to pull a few on the way to make it. Great anchor/belay station.
Rock Climbing Photo: Christian Vanderslice at first chains.
Christian Vanderslice at first chains.
By MojoMonkey
Nov 8, 2010

A nice option on these colder, but sunny days. The climbing is fun - requiring technique/balance over strength. I would have given it 3 stars, but even after a few years the rock is still crumbling. As long as you are aware of it going in, it is a good time. Nice and long, I went all the way to the top in one shot (which was 15 draws, I believe - including clipping one bolt on the first anchor but not the top anchor).

On one of the earlier bolts the rock looks to have fractured as it was being drilled; you can see about 1/4 inch of threads on the bolt through the chunk missing behind the hanger.
By MojoMonkey
Aug 22, 2012

As an update to my last comment, either I was less observant last time or rock is flaking off from behind the hangers. There were more bolts with 1/4" or so of bolt exposed behind the hanger. 4-6? I didn't count.

And regarding Larry's comment on the four anchor bolts, the leftmost one is maybe 2" from an abandoned drill hole. Given the rock quality and that bolt spacing guidelines I've seen are 10x bolt diameter or 2x hole depth, I wouldn't recommend anybody running the climb as one long pitch chooses the left bolt to clip along the way, regardless of the hangers getting tightened.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 22, 2013

Felt soft for a 9. There was always an edge (or more) for feet. Some nice crux moves, but, not particularly difficult if you get your body in the right position for the holds. I enjoyed this climb.
By Rocket
Jul 31, 2014

First pitch: 11 draws + chains
Second pitch: 3 draws + chains
18 draws total
By Tom Thomas
From: Pittsburgh
Aug 13, 2015

This was a ton of fun. In fact I was surprised how much I enjoyed this climb. Yes there is some lose stuff but overall this climb should not be missed if you are in the area. Here are some long arms of me solo leading this classic.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the route
Starting up the route


Rock Climbing Photo: Working my way up the route nearing the crux
Working my way up the route nearing the crux


Rock Climbing Photo: Just pass the crux. man that was so much fun..
Just pass the crux. man that was so much fun..


Rock Climbing Photo: just a little friction before the anchors
just a little friction before the anchors


Rock Climbing Photo: Anchors away to pitch one.. I'm all smiles.
Anchors away to pitch one.. I'm all smiles.


Rock Climbing Photo: Solo leading up pitch two with the anchors to pitc...
Solo leading up pitch two with the anchors to pitch one below.


Rock Climbing Photo: 1/2 up pitch 2..
1/2 up pitch 2..


Rock Climbing Photo: Anchors away pitch 2..
Anchors away pitch 2..


Rock Climbing Photo: 70 meter rope will make it to the ground from pitc...
70 meter rope will make it to the ground from pitch 2

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