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Cheater rest trying to figure out the crux, 6 bolt...
2 pitches in length.
Semi-hanging belay at both anchors.
Enjoyable in late fall, winter and early spring. Probably to hot in summer.
Route farthest right when facing the wall.
As many draws as you've got, as well as anchor materials.
Wear helmets! lots of loose stuff that comes off the top.
Can be just barely rapped from the top anchors with a 70 M rope. Otherwise 2 raps will be required.
First pitch complete
|Comments on Virgin Suicides
|By Jeffrey West|
From: Anywhere, USA
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.9+ PG13
Lots of fun. A little sketchy at bolt 6-8, but really worth it. We went up with 10 draws and the lead climber had to pull a few on the way to make it. Great anchor/belay station.
| || |Christian Vanderslice at first chains.
Submitted By: Jeffrey West on Apr 13, 2010
Nov 8, 2010
A nice option on these colder, but sunny days. The climbing is fun - requiring technique/balance over strength. I would have given it 3 stars, but even after a few years the rock is still crumbling. As long as you are aware of it going in, it is a good time. Nice and long, I went all the way to the top in one shot (which was 15 draws, I believe - including clipping one bolt on the first anchor but not the top anchor).
On one of the earlier bolts the rock looks to have fractured as it was being drilled; you can see about 1/4 inch of threads on the bolt through the chunk missing behind the hanger.
Aug 22, 2012
As an update to my last comment, either I was less observant last time or rock is flaking off from behind the hangers. There were more bolts with 1/4" or so of bolt exposed behind the hanger. 4-6? I didn't count.
And regarding Larry's comment on the four anchor bolts, the leftmost one is maybe 2" from an abandoned drill hole. Given the rock quality and that bolt spacing guidelines I've seen are 10x bolt diameter or 2x hole depth, I wouldn't recommend anybody running the climb as one long pitch chooses the left bolt to clip along the way, regardless of the hangers getting tightened.