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Farfrombright, on the FA, opening ass for Al-Quaid...
This is the hanging flake/water streak uphill from Inside Straight and the Complex. The base of the flake forms a tiny pool, often wet in early season. Faceclimb past 2 bolts (3/8"/ 2.25") and undercling into the flake. Finish with nice 5.9 jamming to the bolt belay on Melvin's Wheel.
|Comments on Virgin Spring
|By Chuck Graves|
Jun 7, 2004
The climb opens with several 5.9 moves to the first bolt. Moves high and to the left and then back right quickly accelerate in difficulty in the reach to the clip at the second bolt, 10a/b. A couple of moves up and right, with a right foot on sloping creases in the water streak gets you within reach of a sloping hand hold at the bottom of the flake. This hold was wet and mossy. Just above this hold at the bottom of the flake, protection placement, yellow Alien or equivilent is possible, though the stance imay be insecure. Underclinging and liebacking up the flake will bring one to a secure though strenuous position, where good rock and gear can be placed, #2.5 Friend. This would be about 4-5 feet above gear placed at the bottom of the flake and about 8 to 10 feet above and to the right the second bolt. Still untrodden 5.8 and 5.9 jamming with solid nut and Friend placements will put one at the bolts marking the end of the first pitch of Melvin's Wheel on Library Ledge. The bolts are well placed and protect the moves to the flake. Some of the hand and foot holds are flakes and crystals of very friable rock. Several broke under me, particularly between the second bolt and flake. Gear placement at the bottom of the flake, above the second bolt may be suspect due to friable rock consistency. The route will improve with traffic to two stars. Single set of mid-size nuts WC 5-9 and Friends to 3.0 will suffice for the pitch.
|By Edward Corder II|
Sep 22, 2004
I was under the impression this was called "The wet Virgin ?
|By Chuck Graves|
Dec 19, 2004
t was my understanding that a Beta Comment was to provide, "directions, degree of difficulty, pro and gear requirements, anchor/descent/ climbing strategies".Please accept my aplogies for the over detailed descriptive comments of my experience while on this route.In the future I will forward my comments for review before submission.