Hello all,

I'm headed to the virgin islands (St. John's) for a friend's wedding this summer, and can't stand the thought of going a week without climbing.

Does anyone have any knowledge of routes or climbing areas in St John's, or any other nearby islands? I'd be happy with anything- trad, sport, bouldering. I've searched MP and SummitPost, with no luck.

Thanks in advance!

Unfortunately it's in British VI. Virgin Gorda.

Looks great, thanks! I'll just take the ferry over.

I thought this was going to be about grade VI climbing. Oh well, I've been to St Thomas and St Johns, the snorkeling and windsurfing are great!....that's what I'd stick to.

Anybody got anything to add to this post? Looking for information on climbing in the Virgin Islands.

Thanks!

I've been to St. John. The island was formed geologically by plate subduction volcanism, like the pacific region of the US. I stayed on the southeastern side of the island which is in the rain shadow, so it appeared more rocky. Lots of basalt and conglomerate (welded tuff?). Visited a while back before I was into climbing (but into rocks) and a guy I was with, who was a climber, mentioned something about good climbing on a cliff near by.
The snorkeling on that side of the island is fantastic. Lots of rock reefs full of large fish and lobster.

Virgin Gorda, around the Bath Rocks Beach. There are a lot of granite boulders on that side of the island. Not many developed/cleaned for climbing, but I dinked around on a few of them a couple years ago. Beautiful area. A pad is helpful.

I was in the USVI last christmas. St Thomas just south of Charlotte Amalie at the Marriot Complex. There's NOTHING official on either St Thomas or St John but a decent amount of interesting rock. I found some nice, solid basalt like stuff that dropped right into the ocean. Nothing DWS per-se but I could go do a nice long traverse for about 500 or more feet, launch off the top and swim back to the beach. If you'll be in St John I think you're closer to the Ferry to the BVI. There ARE established granite bouldering areas there.

A search for Virgin Gorda Climbing will get you well on your way.

I was in the British Virgin Islands a couple of months ago. If you go from the American Virgin Islands to the British Virgin Islands or visa versa, be prepared to go thru customs. Have your Passport with you.

There's a Dr. Topo guide for Virgin Gorda still available here: www.drtopo.com/submitted/virgin_gorda.pdf

Definitely check out Virgin Gorda. I was there about a month ago, and it is amazing. The Dr. Topo guide is perfect for the area. I recommend the boulders at Spring Bay. Cool 20 foot hand crack over white sand... amazing.

If you search YouTube for "Bouldering Virgin Gorda", you can find a short film I made about the trip. I'd post a link, but I'm at work and don't have access to YouTube

(It's incredible I can get on this site though... so much company time has been wasted here)

Great info... Virgin Gorda looks to be the place. Thanks for posting the topo Peter.

Bob - you V0 sending S.O.B. - I want to know more about that 20ft crack over white sand!!! Wednesday night climbing will be back on soon... see you then..

Thanks everyone!

I'm from St. Croix, and although there may be some lines on the NW coast of the island, there isn't much - as said before, most of the climbing is on the incredible granite boulders of Virgin Gorda.

St. John is the prettiest of the three USVIs. Make sure to go to the smoothee shack to see the tame donkeys, and spend a night at Maho Bay - their food is incredible, the tent-cabins cheap, and beer on tap. Go swimming at their beach at night to see incredible bioluminescent plankton. (its like swimming in a constellation)

That hand crack is out of this world, and probably 5.9 but make sure you bring a pad because the sand doesn't cushion impact well (weird, i know). We brought a Metolius stomp which packs nicely into a 16x16x24 box, which doesn't require an oversize luggage fee.

The climbing is brutally hot, if you are trying to push yourself, you'll really only be able to around dawn or after 8pm by headlamp after the rocks have cooled down. That topo is a good one though.

Make sure to bring a mask and snorkel, as there is incredible snorkeling. Cool underwater passageways under submerged granite boulders, incredibly large self assured fish, and the largest lobster I've ever seen.

Ferry schedules are here
www.vinow.com/general_usvi/interisland_ferry/

Take the ferry into Town "The Valley" from Cruz Bay St. John, buy a Ting (grapefruit soda) at Buck's market, then walk 2 mi or take a taxi south to the baths.

Camping at the baths themselves is against the rules, but you won't get caught as the place clears out by 5-6pm.

...that hand crack Submitted By: Simon Hatfield on Mar 10, 2011

main boulder, especially cool 20'+ highball in center Submitted By: Simon Hatfield on Mar 10, 2011

Steve Zissou and Rob Frost... Meet Bob Robinson!
Fun video Bob.

Thanks Monty! I'm glad you got the tone I was going for

Contrary to what has been posted here, there is climbing here in St Thomas. There is a cliff about 80 ft or so above the university that is worth checking out. Also a few spots on outlying islands that a boat is needed and some bushwacking, but awesome climbing. Hull Bay point has some easy DPW soloing, 60 ft or so. Yes, the rock isnt the best quality so all the climbing I've done so far has been TP.

RE: British Virgin Isands

Hey Simon!

Here's "...that hand crack..." back nearly 25 years ago

"...that hand crack..." Submitted By: Harry Marinakis on Jun 30, 2011

A particularly hard problem at the Baths Submitted By: Harry Marinakis on Jun 30, 2011

More bouldering at the Baths Submitted By: Harry Marinakis on Jun 30, 2011