The Virgin Islands, despite it's ease of accessibilty, remains one of the quieter and less frequented climbing areas in the Park. The crowds are fewer here and the solitude, especially away from the road, is quite noticable. The first documented climbing was done here in the early 1980's by the ubiquitous Tony Yaniro and Vaino Kodas who climbed the bulk of the best crack lines. Since then a number of quality crack and face climbs have been done with limited development continuing to this day.
Some of the recommended cracks here include the fairly enjoyable wide to hands crack of Thumbs Down Left
(5.9), Light Sabre
(5.10b) with it's clean corner and exposed crack higher, Between a Rock and a Hard Place
(5.10b) for those seeking a full body workout, Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market
(5.10d) a tricky thin crack, Perpetual Motion
(5.10d) a steep hand crack, Centurion
(5.10d) for those whose like it wide and Human Sacrifice (5.11c) for those who want to step it up a notch.
A sampling of recommended face routes include the relatively unknown Hodad Arete (5.10b), the sandbagged Raker's Blaring Hat Rack (5.10d) which climbs a free-standing spire, Hot Lava
(5.11a) with it's delicate arete moves, the somewhat obscure Walking on the Moon
(5.12a), Rapture of the Steep
(5.12b) with it's steep face goodness, the overhanging arete of Dictators of Anarchy (5.12c) and the continuously difficult and excellent New World Order
The Virgin Isles are reached by drving down the Geology Tour Road about 4.2 miles and parking in any of several pullouts along the side of the road. The formations are easily visible from the road and hiking times vary from 5-20 minutes with some scrambling typical. Take care if driving a 2WD vehicle to park pointing downhill. Should you get stuck you can continue driving further down the road to a turnabout at Squaw Tank
(1.1 miles down the road) which has a large area suitable for turning around.
Weather station 13.0 miles from here
40 Total Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',17],['Bomb',1]
Browse More Classics in Virgin Islands Area
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Virgin Islands Area:
Featured Route For Virgin Islands Area
Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Star Wars Rock
Cedric's follows the discontinuous right-slanting cracks just left of Light Sabre. Where the name came from is a mystery to me. Expect a mix of side-pulls and face holds with your jams for the bottom section. At the top, the crack fades into the face so you must smear to the summit. It's more technical and devious than Light Sabre, and a bit more work to set the gear, but overall it's a worthy pitch. If it seems a little out of your league, run up Thumbs Down Left or Light Sabre and string ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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Chemehuevi grinding holes, Joshua Tree NP.
Virgin Islands. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock art. Photo by Blitzo.
A sudden downpour near the Virgin Islands, Joshua ...
Looking down the Geology Road, Joshua Tree NP
Virgin Isles from the south, Joshua Tree NP