Mountain Project: Climbing North America

"Unreal" beach bouldering according to Ivan Greene's new video. More potential than you could ever imagine. Some lines have remnants of chalk, most others are washed clean by frequent afternoon showers. The rock is actually grippy, except where waves have polished it smooth.

There is now a decent guide book on Dr. Topo. Be sure to take this along if you go. It will really help get you started, even though some of the beaches have SO MANY boulders that it takes a few minutes to find your way.

Getting There

Planes, ferries, taxis. Any combination of such. From the states, fly to either St. Thomas or San Juan. From St. Thomas, you can jump in the ferry system over to Tortola then to VG. Or for a bit more, you can fly Air Sunshine straight to VG. A few airlines fly San Juan to Tortola, then 30 minute ferry to VG.
Bouldering is by Spring Bay, The Baths and Devil's Bay on the South side of the island.

The place to stay here is Guavaberry Spring Bay. It is within walking distance to nearly all of the "established" climbing areas. They have reasonable rates, are super cool, will let you borrow a crash pad, have a little commissary that is pretty well stocked and have kitchens and A/C in your 'huts'.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Virgin Gorda, BVI:

Warm up arete V0-1 Boulder, 15 feet Spring Bay

Devils Bay Trail Traverse V1 Boulder, 15 feet Devil's Bay

Don't Fall on Your Honeymoon V1 Boulder, 25 feet Devil's Bay

Mediterranean Caper V1 Boulder, 15 feet Devil's Bay

Watch Out for the Thorny Bush V2- Boulder, 25 feet Devil's Bay

Island Crack V2 Boulder, 20 feet Spring Bay

Island Flake V2 Boulder, 20 feet Spring Bay

Added Value V3 Boulder, 8 feet Devil's Bay

Babar's tusk V3 Boulder, 12 feet Devil's Bay

Spring Bay Prow V3-4 X Boulder, 18 feet Spring Bay

Rightmost Arete V4- Boulder, 12 feet Little Trunk Bay

Jump the Shark V4-5 Boulder, 15 feet Spring Bay

V5 face V5 Boulder, 20 feet Spring Bay

Babar V6-7 Boulder, 12 feet Devil's Bay

So Hot V9-10 Boulder, 15 feet Devil's Bay

Comments on Virgin Gorda, BVI

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By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Jan 27, 2009

What I placed up here is just barely a taste of the area's potential. MANY MANY others have done far greater things. These are just the easiest to find projects. I'm guessing people were keeping VG a secret by not posting it earlier. However, with Ivan Greene's video now out, it is no longer a hidden gem.
I went in June of 08 and the temps were 85 highs and 75 lows. It is pretty much in this range all year. I'm going back again this spring. It is THAT GOOD.
There may be other names to these routes. I have no idea. I just thought these up on the fly.

By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Jan 28, 2009

I honeymooned here and had a great time exploring the boulders. The limiting factors are heat and sand. I didn't take a pad and had no spotters, but the climbing was still fun. I preferred the boulders of Spring Bay and Devils Bay over the Baths proper... too many gawkers! Hopefully more folks will contribute beta; its a great little bouldering vacation paradise.

By Monty
From: Morrison, Co
May 18, 2009

so how about it the fall, like september, still warm and tropical like?

By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Jul 21, 2009

Not much of a change in seasons. Winter-Summer - 10-15 degrees maybe. Had a friend who went down in August and found 100 degree days but that is very abnormal. What I would watch out for in planning a late summer/fall trip would be hurricane season.

By chris begue
Aug 18, 2009

The first time I climbed here was in the 70's and I was so bummed that I did not have a rope and the cliffs were not taller. My next encounter was in 84 and holy mother I knew what bouldering was and I knew what soft landings were and I was in the birth place of those. So cool to see pictures of an area that was part of my becoming a traveling climber. Remember to leave the places better then they were when you got there.
Love and peace
Chris

By Jonathon Wasser
Apr 10, 2011

Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands will be the center for Caribbean bouldering this June. Come help develop the already established bouldering scene on the island by naming and documenting new boulder problems, locating new areas, and enjoying the beautiful Caribbean weather. The concentration of the dates for this event will be between June 2-June 22.

Contact Jonathon Wasser at wasserj@gwu.edu
or
Rich Crowder at Rich@richcrowder.com

for details.

By Rich C
Apr 13, 2013

Guidebook includes tons of travel beta and hundreds of problems:
fixedpin.com/British_Virgin_Islands.html

https://vimeo.com/34760326

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Virgin Gorda, BVI

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Getting There

The Classics