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Just below the upper crux of Violator (5.11c), Riv...
Start up a short section of easy slab to the base of a left-facing flake system which is jammed/liebacked to a cruxy sequence transitioning into another flake system; being tall helps, as does good technique. Once established in the upper flake continue to race the pump as you climb the spectacular flake system, finishing with a second crux as you work fingery edges up and left, and then back right to anchors on a ledge.
Athletic and pumpy for the grade with great positioning, this route is a highly recommended route for the grade that serves as an ideal warm-up for the harder lines in the area. There is an extension route to this called Wicked Violator (5.13a)**** - 17 bolts to anchors.
Located midway between the obvious left-facing corner of Taboo (5.12c) and Magic Mushroom (5.11b), this climbs a series of steep flakes two routes right of Original Sin.
12 bolts, triple ring anchor
|By C Miller|
Apr 2, 2008
Originally started from a ledge below the start of the flake system, but there's now two bolts to start from the ground. Make sure to use a 70 meter rope if belaying from the ground or be extra careful when lowering off.
|By Euan Cameron|
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Nov 15, 2008
Big holds with only a couple of short crux sequences makes this a soft tick. The climbing is great however, and well worth doing.
From: Augsburg, Germany
Oct 2, 2009
This is such a fun route! with 2 distinct cruxes and definitely a battle against the pump.... its my personal work in progress project until i can do it totally clean!!! :)
The info above is spot on when it said 'helps to be tall'- for little people like me it felt really challenging... ha, ended up dyno-ing the lower crux at the (joking) suggestion of my partner- but no one was more shocked than me when it actually worked!!! sooo... maybe that's the beta for short girls??
but yeah, 5 stars, super fun! can't wait to do more work on it!
From: Riverside, Ca
Jul 16, 2012
The meat of the climb doesn't really get difficult till about 30 feet up from the new start. If you're 5'5 or lower, one clipping stand is pretty "reachy" and I would say right around the first crux of the climb.
Use the arm and hand jams up top to help with the pump!