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Violator 

Violator 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Page Views: 1,880
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 11, 2007
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Just below the upper crux of Violator (5.11c), Riv...
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Description 

Start up a short section of easy slab to the base of a left-facing flake system which is jammed/liebacked to a cruxy sequence transitioning into another flake system; being tall helps, as does good technique. Once established in the upper flake continue to race the pump as you climb the spectacular flake system, finishing with a second crux as you work fingery edges up and left, and then back right to anchors on a ledge.

Athletic and pumpy for the grade with great positioning, this route is a highly recommended route for the grade that serves as an ideal warm-up for the harder lines in the area. There is an extension route to this called Wicked Violator (5.13a)**** - 17 bolts to anchors.


Location 

Located midway between the obvious left-facing corner of Taboo (5.12c) and Magic Mushroom (5.11b), this climbs a series of steep flakes two routes right of Original Sin.


Protection 

12 bolts, triple ring anchor



Photos of Violator Slideshow Add Photo
Violator. Great steep climbing.
BETA PHOTO: Violator. Great steep climbing.
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By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 2, 2008

Originally started from a ledge below the start of the flake system, but there's now two bolts to start from the ground. Make sure to use a 70 meter rope if belaying from the ground or be extra careful when lowering off.

By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Nov 15, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Big holds with only a couple of short crux sequences makes this a soft tick. The climbing is great however, and well worth doing.

By HeatherB-Radley
From: Augsburg, Germany
Oct 2, 2009

This is such a fun route! with 2 distinct cruxes and definitely a battle against the pump.... its my personal work in progress project until i can do it totally clean!!! :)
The info above is spot on when it said 'helps to be tall'- for little people like me it felt really challenging... ha, ended up dyno-ing the lower crux at the (joking) suggestion of my partner- but no one was more shocked than me when it actually worked!!! sooo... maybe that's the beta for short girls??
but yeah, 5 stars, super fun! can't wait to do more work on it!

By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Jul 16, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

The meat of the climb doesn't really get difficult till about 30 feet up from the new start. If you're 5'5 or lower, one clipping stand is pretty "reachy" and I would say right around the first crux of the climb.

Use the arm and hand jams up top to help with the pump!