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The Village Crags are the various segments of the prominent cliffband that surrounds the picturesque mesa that supports the quaint village of Siurana. This clffband is sub-divided into nearly 20 distinct sectors, featuring around 300 or so high-quality routes, ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14c. The showpiece crag is Campi Qui Pugui, with its impressive collection of legendary pocket climbs from 5.11 to 5.14c. High quality testpieces can also be found at the nearby Ca La Boja, which features mostly shorter routes in the 5.12b to 5.13c range, and the aesthetic orange Rebotat Pinnacle, which holds a good collection of difficult endurance routes.
All of the Village Crags are best approached from the large parking lot adjacent to the ruined castle at the East end of the hilltop village. Although a few crags are approached from the village itself, residents request that climbers park at the castle lot. This minor inconvenience adds no more than an extra minute of easy walking.
27 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Village Crags:
Featured Route For Village Crags
Delicatessan 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Europe : Spain : ... : Campi Qui Pugui
The most classic 12a at Siurana, Delicatessen offers fun climbing on a relatively steep & juggy wall (by Siurana standards). While the holds are generally above average in size, this is no gimme. Also, the moves to the first bolt, while easy, are extremely exposed.Climb up & left along a juggy flake to the first bolt. Continue left along the broken band to good jugs way left. Climb up along fun, juggy flakes, then make a desperate traverse back right via a tiny edge to reach the fourth bolt...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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