The Village Crags are the various segments of the prominent cliffband that surrounds the picturesque mesa that supports the quaint village of Siurana. This clffband is sub-divided into nearly 20 distinct sectors, featuring around 300 or so high-quality routes, ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14c. The showpiece crag is Campi Qui Pugui, with its impressive collection of legendary pocket climbs from 5.11 to 5.14c. High quality testpieces can also be found at the nearby Ca La Boja, which features mostly shorter routes in the 5.12b to 5.13c range, and the aesthetic orange Rebotat Pinnacle, which holds a good collection of difficult endurance routes.
All of the Village Crags are best approached from the large parking lot adjacent to the ruined castle at the East end of the hilltop village. Although a few crags are approached from the village itself, residents request that climbers park at the castle lot. This minor inconvenience adds no more than an extra minute of easy walking.
28 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Village Crags:
Featured Route For Village Crags
Toca-me-la Sam 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Europe : Spain : ... : Campi Qui Pugui
This stunning orange wall is one of the best 5.11s at Siurana. A technician's dream, this cerebral face offers numerous challenging boulder problems split by tiring rests. The rock is mercifully not as sharp as many routes at Siurana. Begin behind the bush, just right of a right-facing corner. Cruise the easy slab to a big ledge. Charge up & over the awkard roof to a good shake at an undercling hole. Work up the flake , then make cruxy moves to reach the big chalky undercling. A long rea...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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