Village Crags Rock Climbing
Climbing near the upper parking lot.
The Village Crags are the various segments of the prominent cliffband that surrounds the picturesque mesa that supports the quaint village of Siurana. This clffband is sub-divided into nearly 20 distinct sectors, featuring around 300 or so high-quality routes, ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14c. The showpiece crag is Campi Qui Pugui, with its impressive collection of legendary pocket climbs from 5.11 to 5.14c. High quality testpieces can also be found at the nearby Ca La Boja, which features mostly shorter routes in the 5.12b to 5.13c range, and the aesthetic orange Rebotat Pinnacle, which holds a good collection of difficult endurance routes.
High quality moderates abound along the upper tier, at crags like the ultra-popular Melafots, L'Isabel, & La Trona. The rock on the upper tier is not as monolothic as at the more famous crags below, but the smooth yellow stone is quite solid, fun to climb, and a nice relief for fingertips worn raw from the sharp crimps found elsewhere.
Great moderates are also found on the more consolidated & aesthetic stone of the lower tier, at crags such as Marges Upper & Lower, Can Gan Dionis, & Tonigros. While all of the cliffs named above face more or less South, shade can be found in various nooks at the right time of day. If all day shade is required, Reserve India is the best option other than the Valley Crags,
and offers a wide variety of grades. Can Ciriac gets afternoon shade, situated directly below the old Refugi.
Most of the cliffs tend to be vertical or close to it, with a few bulging roofs sprinkled in here and there. For overhanging routes, head to Campi, Ca La Boja, Rebotat Pinnacle, or the right end of the Melafots cliff. Slab enthusiasts won't want to miss Marges Upper or Can Gan Dionis.
All of the Village Crags are best approached from the large parking lot adjacent to the ruined castle at the East end of the hilltop village. Although a few crags are approached from the village itself, residents request that climbers park at the castle lot. This minor inconvenience adds no more than an extra minute of easy walking.
Climbing Season For the Catalonia area.
Weather station 14.3 miles from here
28 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Village Crags
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Village Crags
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Village Crags:
Featured Route For Village Crags
Ultima del 85 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Europe
: ... : Marges Upper
This outstanding moderate climbs a nice, sculpted gray slab on beautiful sinker pockets. Despite the slabby angle, this is a great beginner outing or a perfect warmup. There are a few long moves here and there, but intermediate edges allow passage for the height-impaired.A few easy moves gain a horizontal break below a bulge. Make sequential moves between great pockets to the crux above the fourth bolt: a long reach to a not-so-great 2-finger pocket. More juggy pockets above lead to a left-f...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Panorama of the South-facing Village Crags.
A climber at Sector Campi Qui Pugui.