Village Crags  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Elevation:  2,300' Lat, Long:  41.2585, -359.0637 Map Page Views:  11,096. Good page?    Administrator:  Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009 Make this area a Favorite What's New  Printer View Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Panorama of the South-facing Village Crags.

Description 

The Village Crags are the various segments of the prominent cliffband that surrounds the picturesque mesa that supports the quaint village of Siurana. This clffband is sub-divided into nearly 20 distinct sectors, featuring around 300 or so high-quality routes, ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14c. The showpiece crag is Campi Qui Pugui, with its impressive collection of legendary pocket climbs from 5.11 to 5.14c. High quality testpieces can also be found at the nearby Ca La Boja, which features mostly shorter routes in the 5.12b to 5.13c range, and the aesthetic orange Rebotat Pinnacle, which holds a good collection of difficult endurance routes.

High quality moderates abound along the upper tier, at crags like the ultra-popular Melafots, L'Isabel, & La Trona. The rock on the upper tier is not as monolothic as at the more famous crags below, but the smooth yellow stone is quite solid, fun to climb, and a nice relief for fingertips worn raw from the sharp crimps found elsewhere.

Great moderates are also found on the more consolidated & aesthetic stone of the lower tier, at crags such as Marges Upper & Lower, Can Gan Dionis, & Tonigros. While all of the cliffs named above face more or less South, shade can be found in various nooks at the right time of day. If all day shade is required, Reserve India is the best option other than the Valley Crags, and offers a wide variety of grades. Can Ciriac gets afternoon shade, situated directly below the old Refugi.

Most of the cliffs tend to be vertical or close to it, with a few bulging roofs sprinkled in here and there. For overhanging routes, head to Campi, Ca La Boja, Rebotat Pinnacle, or the right end of the Melafots cliff. Slab enthusiasts won't want to miss Marges Upper or Can Gan Dionis.

Getting There 

All of the Village Crags are best approached from the large parking lot adjacent to the ruined castle at the East end of the hilltop village. Although a few crags are approached from the village itself, residents request that climbers park at the castle lot. This minor inconvenience adds no more than an extra minute of easy walking.

The Classics

Featured Route For Village Crags

Siouxie 5.13a  International : Spain : ... : Campi Qui Pugui

The ultimate full-value sport climb, Siouxie has a bit of everything. The route is long, sustained, and sequential, with cerebral moves on flawless stone and a brilliant position. This is generally considered one of the best routes at Siurana, though it sees few ascents due to its reputation as "girly" and stout for the grade. The climb has four or five distinct characters, all hard in their own way. Scramble up the slab to a small ledge. Take a deep breath, then punch up the 100 degree wal...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Village Crags Slideshow

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A climber at Sector Campi Qui Pugui.