The Village Crags are the various segments of the prominent cliffband that surrounds the picturesque mesa that supports the quaint village of Siurana. This clffband is sub-divided into nearly 20 distinct sectors, featuring around 300 or so high-quality routes, ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14c. The showpiece crag is Campi Qui Pugui, with its impressive collection of legendary pocket climbs from 5.11 to 5.14c. High quality testpieces can also be found at the nearby Ca La Boja, which features mostly shorter routes in the 5.12b to 5.13c range, and the aesthetic orange Rebotat Pinnacle, which holds a good collection of difficult endurance routes.
All of the Village Crags are best approached from the large parking lot adjacent to the ruined castle at the East end of the hilltop village. Although a few crags are approached from the village itself, residents request that climbers park at the castle lot. This minor inconvenience adds no more than an extra minute of easy walking.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Village Crags:
Featured Route For Village Crags
Siouxie 5.13a International : Spain : ... : Campi Qui Pugui
The ultimate full-value sport climb, Siouxie has a bit of everything. The route is long, sustained, and sequential, with cerebral moves on flawless stone and a brilliant position. This is generally considered one of the best routes at Siurana, though it sees few ascents due to its reputation as "girly" and stout for the grade. The climb has four or five distinct characters, all hard in their own way. Scramble up the slab to a small ledge. Take a deep breath, then punch up the 100 degree wal...[more] Browse More Classics in International