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Village Cobbler 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 1,803
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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George getting ready for the business on Village C...

Description 

This route is on the southeast side of the Beer Block just through the narrow passage between Beer Block and the Big Pine Wall block. But despite the sunny-sounding aspect, it's shaded by the Big Pine Wall block most of the day making it a nice route for those hot days.

Start out on chalked-up but not-so-positive holds to some decent holds for clipping the first few bolts. After the third bolt the climbing becomes steeper and a bit run-out to a difficult clip at the fourth bolt with a fixed chain draw. Chalked up holds around the fourth bolt look appealing but don't offer much for a good clipping stance. Figure out the clip and punch it to better holds past one more bolt and the anchors.

Location 

This route is on the southeast side of the Beer Block at the top of the narrow passage between Beer Block and the Big Pine Wall block.

Protection 

5 bolts to anchors


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By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Jun 15, 2010

FA Lance Hadfield this was the 1st route I bolted in El Rito and the 3rd route in the area
By NEH
Sep 10, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Excellent route! There is a chain draw on the 4th bolt that makes "the crux" clip a bit easier.
By skelldify
May 29, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

The fourth bolt seems like it could be a bit lower, it's right in the middle of the crux sequence. We hung a draw on the chain to allow clipping from the good holds. Then you're protected for the entire crux, and it's still not a big fall going to the fifth bolt. I hate it when the crux of a route is making a clip.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 31, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

With all respect for the idea of adding a permadraw to alleviate a challenging clip (which I do appreciate sometimes), if people are clipping that with a quickdraw, it seems to me like adding another bolt is a better solution. One of you folks with a drill ought to send Lance an email and put one in. Alternatively, take the permadraw down and let the climb just be one of those with a bit of a bite to it (there are some classic 5.11 sport climbs in NM with minor runouts / hard clips, so it's good practice to learn to deal with them; and there are plenty of other great 5.11s at El Rito that people can do without worrying about hard clips/longer falls).

I climbed it a couple times a while ago (before the permadraw went in), but haven't since, so I don't have a good perspective on how unreasonable the runout and clip is, although I survived and ultimately sent, I do remember complaining about it the first time.

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