Village Cobbler  5.11b

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Type:  Sport, 45 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Lance Hadfield Submitted By:  Jason Halladay on Apr 26, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

George getting ready for the business on Village C...

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Description 

This route is on the southeast side of the Beer Block just through the narrow passage between Beer Block and the Big Pine Wall block. But despite the sunny-sounding aspect, it's shaded by the Big Pine Wall block most of the day making it a nice route for those hot days.

Start out on chalked-up but not-so-positive holds to some decent holds for clipping the first few bolts. After the third bolt the climbing becomes steeper and a bit run-out to a difficult clip for the fourth bolt. Chalked up holds around the fourth bolt look appealing but don't offer much for a good clipping stance. Don't you love it when the crux of a route is clipping a bolt six feet above the last bolt?

Hint: The key to onsighting this route is opening your eyes and mind and using some very good holds that don't have chalk marks on them but are well in line with the route. Note, I did not heed my own advice.

Location 

This route is on the southeast side of the Beer Block at the top of the narrow passage between Beer Block and the Big Pine Wall block.

Protection 

5 bolts to anchors