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Video on how I learned to climb!
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By Ice4life
From SLC, UT
Jul 3, 2012
GYM

Now no one make fun of my idol please.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jul 3, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

!! What ice? You mean that choss pile of wet snow over the running water? That was something when the slab took off under him. Nice catch for sure.


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jul 3, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

I wonder how bad it was when his saviors went up before him...

I was in a debate with a friend of mine about this very thing this morning. She asked why anyone would climb the "ice choss" in that condition. My response was that maybe he started before the sun was really out, and once it was, it warmed things more than expected and a sort of flash thaw occurred. As for the terrible quality, maybe it was better down low?

I'm not an ice climber so I have no idea if there's any validity to any of that. I just thought it was interesting that it was that bad. The fact that there was a party above this guy does lend a little bit of credence to my theory though, or does it?


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 3, 2012
Stoked...

wow... hope he learned his lesson. you probably only get one or two of these ones in a lifetime as an ice climber.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jul 3, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Yeah, my guess is a late start and climbing into worse and worse conditions as the hours went by.


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By sthomas
Jul 3, 2012

Jake Jones wrote:
I wonder how bad it was when his saviors went up before him... I was in a debate with a friend of mine about this very thing this morning. She asked why anyone would climb the "ice choss" in that condition. My response was that maybe he started before the sun was really out, and once it was, it warmed things more than expected and a sort of flash thaw occurred. As for the terrible quality, maybe it was better down low? I'm not an ice climber so I have no idea if there's any validity to any of that. I just thought it was interesting that it was that bad. The fact that there was a party above this guy does lend a little bit of credence to my theory though, or does it?


Even if there was some sort of flash thaw, the correct course of action is definitely not "grin stupidly and keep moving up." It's downclimb and bail. End of story.


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jul 3, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

sthomas wrote:
Even if there was some sort of flash thaw, the correct course of action is definitely not "grin stupidly and keep moving up." It's downclimb and bail. End of story.


Hahaha. Agreed.


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By Ice4life
From SLC, UT
Jul 6, 2012
GYM

Yeh, my guess was he started at the wrong time and there was less crud at the bottom. Looks like a long climb to me, so it could have been that the bottom was in really good shape, possibly shaded and the topout was terrribad.

He was obviously in over his head, but MAYBE, he was simply to tired or didnt have enough experience and confidence to go down. For all we know he could have just climbed 10 pitches to get to that spot. Not sure bout you, but I wouldn't wanna down climb steep ice if i didnt have to.

THAT BEING SAID! I would NEVER do something i wasn't 100% confident on, and have done numerous times, and I sure as hell would not have lugged as much gear as he did. A few screws 10-13cm a few light biners, a cordalette, and sling or two, belay device and a v thread. Dude looked like he had a full rack on.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 7, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

I just saw this today as well. I remember hearing about it from the woman you hear on the video. I had no idea it was being recorded.


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By Ice4life
From SLC, UT
Jul 8, 2012
GYM

well what did sh say? what had happened?


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 8, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

She said that the route was in terrible shape and a guy following had to have a rope lowered to him and the ice cut away right as he clipped in just like it shows in the video.


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By Em Cos
From Boulder, CO
Jul 8, 2012

Ice4life wrote:
I would NEVER do something i wasn't 100% confident on, and have done numerous times,


Just curious, how do you never do something you haven't done numerous times?


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By NYClimber
From New York
Jul 12, 2012
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

Lord! Good lesson on why to never climb unroped - even if soloing. Too much to go wrong!


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