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Video: Arnaud Petit, "Black Bean" (8b)



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By JesseT
From Portland, OR
Sep 5, 2011
25' drop...wheeeeee!

Absolutely sick video with a HUGE whipper (40 feet? 60?) during the end credits.



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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Sep 5, 2011
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

i see a massive dialogue box, but no vid... anybody else see the vid?


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By Pat Erley
From Gunnison, CO
Sep 5, 2011
me

Sweet heaven! That dude has some seriously metallic testis.


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By Phil Lauffen
From Louyuppie
Sep 5, 2011
On the arete.

Pat Erley wrote:
Sweet heaven! That dude has some seriously metallic testis.


+1


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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Sep 5, 2011

What's the big deal? I climb 5.8b. :)


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Sep 5, 2011
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

almost looked like an intentional...? he's got his line in his hand, is looking down, and basically just lets go of a good hold

either way, yikes!


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By Pat Erley
From Gunnison, CO
Sep 5, 2011
me

Im guessing he was testing out the gear with a bolt clipped as well


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By Evan1984
Sep 5, 2011

I love his top out. It's so understated.


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By Gunkiemike
Sep 5, 2011

I think my fingers would start to get tired if I tried that.










And my mind would implode if faced with that 30m grounder...


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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Sep 5, 2011

That's a beautiful route.

It's not really "tradition" though to rehearse the piss out of something on bolts and then lead it on gear...at least not in 'merica. Climbing something like that ground up on gear would be a whole other level.


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By Grover
Oct 11, 2011

Is all his gear still there? thats alot of booty to leave.

rockandice.com/component/content/article/37-tnb/1658-tnb-con>>>


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By Adam Winters
Administrator
From the Shire
Oct 11, 2011
Red-tail Hawk, Buttermilks

why would you think he left it?


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By JesseT
From Portland, OR
Oct 11, 2011
25' drop...wheeeeee!

I reckon the camera crew got it.


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By Adam Winters
Administrator
From the Shire
Oct 11, 2011
Red-tail Hawk, Buttermilks

Exactly. I don't think he's claiming anything. he's just a dude mixing it up, doing something different.


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By Grover
Oct 11, 2011

Adam Winters wrote:
why would you think he left it?

take a wild guess?


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By Adam Winters
Administrator
From the Shire
Oct 11, 2011
Red-tail Hawk, Buttermilks

got nothing. there was clearly a lot of rigging going on and plenty of ways to retrieve the gear. I don't get it.. durr


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By Grover
Oct 11, 2011

Adam Winters wrote:
got nothing. there was clearly a lot of rigging going on and plenty of ways to retrieve the gear. I don't get it.. durr


nope your wrong, because he topped it out and dropped his rope. And its not ethically right to have your camera crew retrieve your gear if your trad climbing. Sorry man I dont make the rules


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By JesseT
From Portland, OR
Oct 11, 2011
25' drop...wheeeeee!

Who cares what you call it? It is what it is, which just happens to be awesome.


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By Grover
Oct 11, 2011

iamjester wrote:
Who cares what you call it? It is what it is, which just happens to be awesome.


Im preaty sure its a trad climb dude.


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By JesseT
From Portland, OR
Oct 11, 2011
25' drop...wheeeeee!

Sure, but I mean is it a trad climb with poor ethics, or some other kind of climb with good ethics? It's not like he tried to misrepresent the style he did it in. Is it the kind of gear you use that defines the style, or is it the ethics?


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By Grover
Oct 11, 2011

iamjester wrote:
Sure, but I mean is it a trad climb with poor ethics, or some other kind of climb with good ethics? It's not like he tried to misrepresent the style he did it in. Is it the kind of gear you use that defines the style, or is it the ethics?


OK you got me who cares


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By Adam Winters
Administrator
From the Shire
Oct 11, 2011
Red-tail Hawk, Buttermilks

the rope dropping was clearly for dramatic effect, it's a film. can't believe everything you see. I bet the whole thing was CG.


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By Grover
Oct 11, 2011

Adam Winters wrote:
the rope dropping was clearly for dramatic effect, it's a film. can't believe everything you see. I bet the whole thing was CG.


your clearly a good administrator for MP. thanks for clearing everything up Adam


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By Tyler Quesnel
Oct 11, 2011

I don't get it... why so much discussion one way or another. Who here climbs for any other reason than their own personal enjoyment?

Petit clearly wanted to send this climb on gear, whether he climbed 'ground up' or not, where is a loss of ethic. He didn't damage any rock, he didn't cut bolts, as far as I can tell (though I don't speak French) he made no disparaging remarks about those who have climbed it on bolts.

Any criticism of this is the same as a criticism of Alex Honnold soloing when there is plenty of gear placement and he climbed the route before. How about Lynn Hill freeing El Cap when there's plenty of bolt ladders and aiding opportunities.

Just remember George Mallory "Because it's there." He did it because he could.


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By mcarizona
From Flag
Oct 11, 2011

Edit: I burned the steaks!

Steve


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By Adam Winters
Administrator
From the Shire
Oct 11, 2011
Red-tail Hawk, Buttermilks

David Sahalie wrote:
what is hard to understand about doing 13d on limestone on cams and slings?


My response was aimed at Pizmoe and wondering if Arnaud left his gear on the route. There is nothing hard to understand about doing .13d on limestone with natural pro.


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