Secluded, south facing routes on what feels like a mini looking glass. Rock quality is mostly good but can get a bit lichen filled and crumbly at the top of some routes. You can camp near the rock at the base of a waterfall (I believe it is allowed seeing that it is in National Forest land). Getting to the rock involves a bit of adventuring and bush wacking. This area was listed in an old Thomas Kelley guide. I believe many of the routes were his FA's but am unsure- I could add as needed if you know.
From I-40 take 215 South through Canton. Wind up the mountain about 15 miles, passing the Pigeon River and the large Lake. Pass a stone bridge with a waterfall and a pullout on the left side for about 3 cars. Park and walk further south up the road until you see a trail on your left. The approach is about 20-30 minutes but will take you longer the first time you go. Approach: walk up the obvious trail for about 10 minutes until you hit the river crossing. Cross the river and charge uphill through thick roto tunnels. (note: it is easy to miss this this turn: If you mistakenly continued on the main trail that follows the water down hill, you will reach the base of a waterfall and campsite.) Follow the faint trail generally uphill towards the rock, keeping the river on your right. Once you hit the rock, "The Fabulous Thunderbird" is to the left and the rest of the routes are right
From the large ledge, climb up broken boulders and take the left part of the obvious V-shaped corner/flake. Follow this corner past a bolt to the summit. The top was a bit dirty...[more]Browse More Classics in NC