Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
(o) Schoolhouse Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Check's in the Mail , The S 
Conjunction Junction  S 
Dollars and Sense S 
Energy Blues, The S 
Function Junction S 
House of Cards  S 
I'm Just a Bill S 
Interplanet Janet S 
My Hero Zero S 
Rufus Xavier Sarsaparilla TR 
Schoolhouse Rock  S 
Taxman Max S 
Tyrannosaurus Debt S 
Victim of Gravity S 
What's Your Function?  S 

Victim of Gravity 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2008
Page Views: 1,167
Submitted By: Damien on Nov 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Heading up Victim of Gravity, searching for the pl...

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Well protected route with bolts often, protecting every more difficult move. Key holds around the crux section are bolted and glued in, giving the climb a weird feel.

Belay position is annoying as the ground level is all loose sand and very steep.

Location 

Start at the far right side of Schoolhouse Rock, up the loose sand/rock path. First bolt is 6' off the ground just above a slight lip.

Protection 

8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rap rings


Photos of Victim of Gravity Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Victim of Gravity (5.9), Riverside Quarry
BETA PHOTO: Victim of Gravity (5.9), Riverside Quarry

Comments on Victim of Gravity Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Skip the contrived start (harder than 5.10a) past the 1st bolt and start from the arete to make this no harder than 5.8. So-so climbing along cracks and loose features all cobbled together to make it semi-solid. Not PG-13 and not worth repeating.
By Bowens
From: Carlsbad, CA
Oct 23, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree that this route is not PG13; it's bolted appropriately. However, I do think this route is definitely worth repeating. It involves slab climbing, short sections of crack climbing (finger and hand), and a little face climbing. For a short sport climb, it's a lot of fun!

Also, it seems like this would make a great gear lead as well; there appear to be tons of great gear placements throughout.
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Nov 19, 2012

Pretty fun, I wish it kept going straight up instead of merging left at like the 4th? bolt.
By Matthew McMillan
From: Orange, CA
Jan 21, 2014

This was my 5th lead ever. I only realized the danger of a fall from the crux after I was on it. It's not super dangerous but you'll feel it if you're a noob like me. I loved the ledges that created undulating terrain - nothing like gym climbing. I also loved the variation provided by all the finger, hand, and fist jams. The last ten feet or so are almost all crack climbing, including the steepest section. There is a good place to stand below the rap ring anchors, making this a good route for a noob like me to break into the 5.10 range. (Some guides call this a 5.9)
By Sean Stoops
From: Henderson, NV
Apr 8, 2014

I agree with Bowens, definitely worth a repeat. It has a pretty cool mix of styles for such a short route at the quarry. I've sport led it a couple times and trad led it once. It makes a really great trad lead for beginners since you can always chicken out and clip bolts. I also don't think it warrants the PG13 rating.
By James Roe
Dec 18, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Lead this route today, and I have to say the only part that is remotely PG-13 is the silly start. Definitely not worth the weird mantle onto the initial slab section. Just start from the side. Pretty true to 5.9 in my mind, but maybe 5.9- because digging around reveals really solid holds for every section. I do like the variety that the route offers though. Would definitely do again!

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!