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Schoolhouse Rock
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Victim of Gravity 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2008
Page Views: 1,029
Submitted By: Damien on Nov 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: Victim of Gravity (5.9), Riverside Quarry

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>


Well protected route with bolts often, protecting every more difficult move. Key holds around the crux section are bolted and glued in, giving the climb a weird feel.

Belay position is annoying as the ground level is all loose sand and very steep.


Start at the far right side of Schoolhouse Rock, up the loose sand/rock path. First bolt is 6' off the ground just above a slight lip.


8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rap rings

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By C Miller
Jan 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Skip the contrived start (harder than 5.10a) past the 1st bolt and start from the arete to make this no harder than 5.8. So-so climbing along cracks and loose features all cobbled together to make it semi-solid. Not PG-13 and not worth repeating.
By Bowens
From: Carlsbad, CA
Oct 23, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree that this route is not PG13; it's bolted appropriately. However, I do think this route is definitely worth repeating. It involves slab climbing, short sections of crack climbing (finger and hand), and a little face climbing. For a short sport climb, it's a lot of fun!

Also, it seems like this would make a great gear lead as well; there appear to be tons of great gear placements throughout.
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Nov 19, 2012

Pretty fun, I wish it kept going straight up instead of merging left at like the 4th? bolt.
By Matthew McMillan
From: Orange, CA
Jan 21, 2014

This was my 5th lead ever. I only realized the danger of a fall from the crux after I was on it. It's not super dangerous but you'll feel it if you're a noob like me. I loved the ledges that created undulating terrain - nothing like gym climbing. I also loved the variation provided by all the finger, hand, and fist jams. The last ten feet or so are almost all crack climbing, including the steepest section. There is a good place to stand below the rap ring anchors, making this a good route for a noob like me to break into the 5.10 range. (Some guides call this a 5.9)
By Sean Stoops
From: Henderson, NV
Apr 8, 2014

I agree with Bowens, definitely worth a repeat. It has a pretty cool mix of styles for such a short route at the quarry. I've sport led it a couple times and trad led it once. It makes a really great trad lead for beginners since you can always chicken out and clip bolts. I also don't think it warrants the PG13 rating.
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