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Sunday Afternoon Boulder
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Victim of AIDS T,TR 

Victim of AIDS 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A0 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,339
Submitted By: david baker on Jan 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Victim of Aids (5.12a/b)

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Difficult free climb on thin crack. As aid climb use small nuts, cams and leaper hooks. Two good bolts at top for anchor. Could be good top rope to experience the grade. The crack is fingers at its widest point.

Protection 

Small stuff. walk off back of boulder. two new bolts at top of climb.


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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 23, 2006
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0

Originally called "Victim of Aids," of the climbing variety I hope. Smearing with the feet on barely existent slopers on the left of the this thin crack is the key on the upper section of this stiffy. I've only seen this done a few times.

EDIT: Name in my oldest reference is "Aids Victim"
By Aaron S
May 4, 2007

An interesting story on this one: when I was working this on tr a couple years ago a cool local came by and, while we were chatting, he told me about the origin of this climb. Im forgetting his name but hes the same guy that guy his leg stuck in Mother Superior for a really long time. So anyway, this used to be just a thin practice nailing route. As the crack got worn open a bit, some of the guys realized this might actually go free. At this point the route saw an up-tick in nailing practice. Coincidentally, a decent scar formed just within reach up the entire crack and the route was eventually freed; hence the name Aids Victim.
By ron amick
From: poway, ca
Oct 1, 2011

The name of this route is AIDS VICTIM not "victim of aids". An old aid line freed by Ray Olsen
By R-Dubz
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 22, 2014

Fierce but high quality! It's about as legit as thin techy finger cracks get. Also some serious crimp strength required on this one. Lots of beta, especially down low.