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Vicarious Living 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tom Wezwick and Matt Gray, 1996
Season: Early Spring to Late Fall
Page Views: 645
Submitted By: JimmyK on Apr 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Ben Alford struggles through the first pitch of Vi...

Description 

Start on the small bouldery outcrop. The first bolt is above the outcrop. First pitch (10c) is appx 100 feet to a two bolt anchor. Head to the left of a small overhang (crux), then to the right of a larger overhang. Second pitch (10b) is bolted straight up to top (appx 100 feet). See Jemez Rock and Pecos Area guide by Marc Beverly for picture of route.

Location 

Middle of Spectator Wall.
A full 60 meter rope needed to get down both pitches. A 70 meter rope would be better.

Protection 

Bolted. Anchors at top of 1st and 2nd pitch.


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By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 29, 2009

Great route!

Me thinks it's a bit harder if you are short??

We did it in 2 pitches but you could do it in 3 if you wanted to.

You need about 12 draws or so and a couple long slings.

Anchors are cold shuts and the pulls are good.

The ledge on the top of the second pitch is AWESOME!!!!

Bring beer and hang out!

J
By Orlando
Jun 29, 2009

Kick-ass! Was out there with Jeremy on Saturday and this route is very cool.
I (short, weak-ass hack) thought it was very stout for the grade; did an 11c and 10d at the Box last weekend and this felt harder. Some may also find it somewhat runout in sections, by some sport standards, but again, a very cool route.
Jemez Rock mentions something about 18 quickdraws; I counted 10 bolts on the second pitch and maybe (I lost track) a couple more on the first. There is an intermediate anchor on P2 which would not be a bad idea to use as a 2nd belay, otherwise you and your partner will be completely out of sight of each other for 70ft or so.
More importantly, P1 goes at about 115' and P2 at 110'; I doubt you could rap with a single 60m without shenanigans.
Have fun!