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Vibrator 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jamie Coin
Page Views: 8
Submitted By: WAGbag on May 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Walk uphill to the right, then traverse back left on top of the choss band. Careful with the rope here - it is possible to dislodge rocks as you walk over. Fairly easy moves get you to the top of the bulge then the business starts. Unfortunately the crux is a bit desperate with minimal feet with the bolt below you... over the bulge making for a potentially awkward fall. Moving the bolt 2 ft to the right would be nice, or alternatively just plan on pushing out to the right when you fall to avoid the bulge. Harder than Electric Sex but due to the awkward fall gets less stars.

Location 

The left bolt line of the two on the prow

Protection 

bolts


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By jamison coin
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Jun 2, 2012

Im not sure what waaaahbag is talking about with the scary and potentially dangerous fall maybe he was off route a lot of people have taken the ride up there and it is spicy but still safe. I heard waaaaahbag is not scared to go off route to avoid cruxes so it doesn't surprise me that he climbs with body armor he really must not want to have to take a ride in a waaahmbulance.

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