Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
River Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adventure Kayak Trundle S 
Beach Front T 
Bottom Side Down S,TR 
Clear Water Revival S 
Evil S 
Float Trip S 
Flood Control S 
Grilled Trout S,TR 
Human Rites S 
Muddy Waters S 
Old Man River S 
Original Route T 
Overflow S 
Put In, The S 
Right To Laugh S 
Right to Life S 
River Dance S 
River Grill S 
River Jam S 
River Mild, The S,TR 
River Walk T,S 
River Wild, The S 
Slacker S 
Splash S 
Take Me to the River S,TR 
Up A Creek T 
Viagra Falls S 
Water Sports S 
Water Sports Direct Start S 
White Water S 

Viagra Falls 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1998
Page Views: 763
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on May 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The River Wall. L->R for the crag.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Viagra Falls, despite the name, is one of the better lines on the River Wall. It serves up the crux moves right away, between bolts 3 and 4. This is a thin, powerful and technical crux. Once you make it through these moves, you are rewarded with sweet climbing on slightly overhung rock, with good jugs and even a short crack with some nice lieback moves. The upper section stays moderate with climbing in the 5.10 to lower 5.11 range. Good climbing, solid rock, but a little dirty near the top. Have fun....

Protection 

2 bolt / 9 bolts? / 2 bolt anchor. This route shares the anchor with route number 7 (to the right).


Photos of Viagra Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Hittin' it hard on "Viagra Falls".
Hittin' it hard on "Viagra Falls".
Gettin' it going on "Viagra Falls".
Gettin' it going on "Viagra Falls".

Comments on Viagra Falls Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 22, 2011
By Nate Weitzel
Jul 24, 2001

It is hard to say when we talk of the ratings game. I thought White Water, while rated 12b, was easier than AKT. I onsighted White Water, while AKT took me four tries. I do agree that Viagra Falls is harder than both of the above. So maybe it is 12c, I sometimes feel that I am losing my feel for what a route should be rated!!!!
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 26, 2001

No offense, and I thank Mark for all the time and energy (and _) he has put towards establishing mostly good routes, but what is it with Mark adding bolts to other people's routes? Recently I had another friend tell me Mark added a bolt to one of his routes- without permission (my friend is thinking of removing it). Does Mark have a right to be doing this? Should every bolt route be completely without (perceived) risk? What ever happened to "flashing routes on pure adrenaline"? P.S. Sorry I'm a big chicken and posted without my name. 95_ of the time what Mark does is a real service to the climbing community. Just a bit concerned that he is making these unilateral decisions and changing the nature and character of other people's routes.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 28, 2001

Alan- I did not want to "dis" Mark, you, or anyone. My point was that Mark, in the case of my friend's route (and other routes I know of), did not ask but instead took unilateral action to ADD a bolt (not "reconfigure" the bolts) to a route that had already been led, safely I might add. Perhaps my tone was wrong, I apologize. Let's not turn this into anything but an exchange of ideas. I respect your opinion. My point was: Who is Mark, or you, or anyone, that you make the rules and decide what is a safe route or not, or what was done correctly or not by the FA party? Furthermore, why does every "unsafe" route have to be "made right"? There are other climbers out there that don't need, nor want, bolts added to established routes. Personally I feel established routes do not need to be "re-done" so the masses can hang their way up them. I know this is a touchy subject, and I mean no offense- but these actions offend ME. PS Mark HAS contributed a lot to the local scene, I said that earlier, but he is by no means perfect. Personally, in this instance, I think he made a mistake.
By Tod Anderson
Feb 22, 2002

The bolts on AKT were placed from the top down in order to even be able to toprope and clean the route. I had to guess where they should go, a tactic that works 90% of the time. In the original configuration AKT was still a safe route as the new bolt is only 3 feet above the previous one - that's why I didn't add another. Regardless the new bolt is Ok w/me. I've clipped it on subsequent ascents. the same crew did rearrange some bolts at Devil's Head that altered the original routes. I later removed them and restored the routes to their original configuration as they were all in quite clippable redpoint positions. Personally, I don't get too excited about the whole add a bolt deal and first ascentionist stuff, although it is probably not a good idea to move bolts around on other people's routes without talking to them as you may be missing something that they didn't.
By Bryson Slothower
Jul 25, 2002

Alan, It is so great to hear someone who has equipped so many routes himself reiterate the idea that because you have placed bolts or done the F.A. on a route that it in no way implies ownership. It seems to me that a route is made up by the holds on the rock, not the bolts that protect someone who is climbing up them. "my route" should only apply to the gym. By the way, Viagra Falls is a great route, I have yet to redpoint it but would say that 12.c felt about right to me....
By Jim Redo
Aug 19, 2002

-12a
By richard magill
Aug 20, 2002

Jim Redo, Did you get a chance to do The River Wild (just left of Viagra Falls)? I would be curious what you think the correct rating is. There was a bit of a debate about it for awhile.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 20, 2002

Didnt get to try it . It started raining. But I'll get back to you.
By Jim Redo
Aug 20, 2002

sorry! that's my(jim redo's)comment not Anonymous coward. I spaced the name thing.
By Tod Anderson
Aug 22, 2002

I thought that this route is harder the taller you are. I found it difficult to scrunch myself up under the roof to stem out right. 12b is Ok w/me.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 3, 2002

If this is 12a, then some 12a's at the BRC need modification, like adding some hard moves!
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jun 11, 2009
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Man i thought this thing was tough... compared to other 12b's in the canyon this felt more 12b/c-ish to me. hard crux moves and a full value pump.

really fun route get on it
By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Jul 22, 2011

I found this significantly harder than White Water, AKT, and River Dance. The opening moves off the ground were powerful with little to no feet. 12c.