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Viagra Falls 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Leo Henson & Albert Newman 10/98
Page Views: 4,645
Submitted By: Joe Irwin on Jan 2, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Description 

All the holds are obvious, due to the excessive chalk. First three bolts are all .12 moves. Start on a ledge; you can go either straight up to the first bolt, which is more difficult, or move right off the deck up to a ledge of good holds and travers to the first bolt. After the fourth bolt, the pressure eases up considerably (maybe .7 or .8), with longer distances between bolts.


Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



Photos of Viagra Falls Slideshow Add Photo
me leading Viagra Falls on the Panty Wall in Red Rocks
me leading Viagra Falls on the Panty Wall in Red R...
Aaron flying up Viagra Falls on a beautiful Red Rock day. <br /> <br />(10/30/07
Aaron flying up Viagra Falls on a beautiful Red Ro...
Deanna sending!
Deanna sending!
Aaron clipping. <br /> <br />(10/30/07)
Aaron clipping.

(10/30/07)
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 24, 2014
By twellman
Apr 2, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

CONDITION REPORT 

I climbed this recently, and it definitely seemed like groundfall territory when getting near the top. It is likely missing a bolt, because I didn't remember this from climbing it a couple years ago, and I only clipped 5 this time. Even though it is easy climbing, a broken hold could equal a serious injury. Hopefully someone local can rectify it soon.

Anyway, this is a fun, crimpy, soft 11d.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 6, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

A very good little line- definitely all business off the ground through the fourth bolt, then it eases off considerably. The third bolt will feel quite high for the shorter folks- be prepared to either reach high or climb through.

Note: Stick clipping the second bolt will prevent a possible groundfall at the crux- I've heard of more than one person hitting the ledge attempting the move.

By Pascal Ripoche
From: Pittsburgh PA
Jan 19, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

crux on second bolt i.e. possible ground (ledge) fall!!! though if you stick clip the second bolt you're not actually leading it : one star only!!!!

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Jan 19, 2012

Hilarious, the old stick clip debate again.

Sport climbing's ethical boiling point...who will survive the octagon of...ah, who gives a shit, it's a sport route.

By AustenE
Jan 12, 2013

Pretty good. fall would be possible if your belayer is too stoned. I think the 5th bolt has either came completely out or is still able to move an inch in and out of the rock, but its easy climbing.

By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

I fell at the second bolt before clipping and was completely uninjured. My foot hit the small ledge but otherwise no big deal. By the way, not sure if the bolting has changed at all, but after the last bolt on the steep part of the wall it was ~25ft to the anchors without any bolts on 5.7ish terrain. Just a heads up.

By Patrick R. M.
From: Nevada
Jan 20, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Second Colin's comment. From the 6th/last bolt, there are no anchors to be seen, but follow the chalk and run it out straight up on jugs for 20ft and they appear out of nowhere. Careful though, some of the rock seemed flexy/hollow.

By Murphski
From: SLC, UT
Feb 24, 2014

I feel like the runout above puts you into groundfall territory. The climbing is easy, but some of the holds are soft (I followed the wrong line of chalk and broke two footholds while at eye level with the anchor.) There are decent nut placements above the last bolt and I would recommend bringing some chocks. I think adding one bolt would be a good service to the route as it is listed as a sport route in the books and someone splatting from 60' in front of all of the gawkers at the first pullout will do nothing for climbing relations with the park.

By dnoB ekiM
Feb 24, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

I think 16 years and hundreds of(probably more than a thousand)ascents would suggest it does not need a retrobolt. Bringing some midsized nuts or small cams will sew up the top...which I agree is a bit run. I think I brought a 0.4 (grey) C4 and used it. At the time, the top bolt was also pretty manky.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 24, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

word on the street is this route is missing its last protection bolt- which, if true, would obviously need to be replaced. i've not verified this, but i would suggest caution when climbing this until someone who does bolt work gets out there to have a look.