Viagra Crack A0
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | A0 [details] |
| FA: | Flaccid old men |
| Season: | Fall/Winter/Spring |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Mar 22, 2009 |
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Description This looks like it might be a good trad route. Closer inspection reveals lots of extra bolts. If you are a limp old man, looking to get up, this is the route for you.
Location It's obvious. This is a crack line that looks easier than it is with a bolt in the middle. The bolts at the bottom and top were added as a remedy for old men with ED (EverygoddamnedpieceofrockIseeismine Dysfunction).
Protection Floppy quickdraws and a flacid nut or two. Per Kirk Miller: the bolts at the top and the bottom were placed before Viagra Crack was cleaned or climbed. All but one were removed when this route was climbed, then they were replaced since they were part of its neighbor, Pretzel Logic.
By morkel May 9, 2009
| Sounds pretty nice, mostly trad, I live 70 miles away. You got um photo? |
By mlloyd From: denver Oct 3, 2012
| I led this route about a week ago. It's a very nice, heady, trad climb with a bolt or two (just when you need them). It sits in the 5.12c range. I found it quite challenging. I recommend this route if you like Eldo. The gear is tricky, and the climbing is thoughtful yet powerful. |
By Kirk Miller From: Golden, CO Apr 24, 2013
| For the record... The bolts at the top and the bottom were placed before Viagra Crack was even cleaned. This crack system was first examined and cursorily cleaned from the original Pretzel Logic anchors. Pretzel Logic starts and finishes on this crack. When John Langston first tried the crack, he drilled two bolts to supplement the gear. He was finally able to free the route, naming it Hellhound (great name). In a bold effort, Mr. Langston returned and freed Hellhound again using only one supplemental bolt. Following this effort, he removed all the bolts he no longer used, effectively chopping the start and finish of Pretzel Logic. To compensate, he drilled a direct finish to Pretzel Logic avoiding that route's final crux (as it overlapped his new route Hellhound). Mark Rolofson later replaced the top and bottom bolts for the original route, Pretzel Logic. As I understand it, Mark felt the quality of Pretzel Logic combined with its status as the first route of the two outweighed any justification for chopping the original start and finishing bolts. |
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