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The East Quarry
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Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) T 
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Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b A0 R

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b A0 [details]
FA: John Langston
Season: Fall/Winter/Spring
Page Views: 1,665
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

This looks like it might be a good trad route. Closer inspection reveals lots of extra bolts. If you are a limp old man, looking to get up, this is the route for you.

Per Mark Rolofson: John Langston attempted to establish the route on lead drilling 2 bolts on aid. Then below the next to last bolt on Pretzel Logic, he fell pulling pro from breaking rock. To finish, he swung over to Pretzel Logic & finished up that line. He returned to clean, inspect pro, & top rope the route. He removed one of his own bolts & did not clip the bolts on Pretzel Logic (the first 2 & the last 2) on his headpoint ascent. He later removed the bolts on Pretzel Logic that he skipped, moving the 2nd bolt left & creating a new finish named Defective Agency. I later returned to replace the first bolt & the last 2 bolts on Pretzel Logic. It was there first. Even with these bolts, this route is still serious & should not be underestimated. I would NOT bring just stoppers. A few Aliens seem necessary, especially a red past the crux bolt with #5-6 micro stopper to protect hard moves to reach the next to last bolt on PL.

Location 

It's obvious. This is a crack line that looks easier than it is with a bolt in the middle. The bolts at the bottom and top were added as a remedy for old men with ED (EverygoddamnedpieceofrockIseeismine Dysfunction).

Protection 

Floppy quickdraws and a flacid nut or two.

Per Kirk Miller: the bolts at the top and the bottom were placed before Viagra Crack was cleaned or climbed. All but one were removed when this route was climbed, then they were replaced since they were part of its neighbor, Pretzel Logic.

Per Mark Rolofson: bolt, Aliens, & microstoppers.


Comments on Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) Add Comment
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By mlloyd
From: denver
Oct 3, 2012

I led this route about a week ago. It's a very nice, heady, trad climb with a bolt or two (just when you need them). It sits in the 5.12c range. I found it quite challenging. I recommend this route if you like Eldo. The gear is tricky, and the climbing is thoughtful yet powerful.
By Mark Rolofson
Jan 16, 2016

The original name of the route was "Hellhound" & rated .12c. Calling it the Viagra Crack & rating it A0 is ridiculous. The history of the first ascent by John Langston, goes as follows (some of it I personally witnessed): first, John attempted to establish the route on lead drilling 2 bolts on aid. Then below the next to last bolt on Pretzel Logic, he fell pulling pro from breaking rock. To finish he swung over to Pretzel Logic & finished up that line. He returned to clean, inspect pro & top rope the route. He removed one of his own bolts & did not clip the bolts on Pretzel Logic (the first 2 & the last 2) on his headpoint ascent. He later removed the bolts on Pretzel Logic that he skipped, moving the 2nd bolt left & creating a new finish named Defective Agency. I later returned to replace the first bolt & the last 2 bolts on Pretzel Logic. It was there first. Even with these bolts, this route is still serious & should not be underestimated. I would NOT bring just stoppers. A few Aliens seem necessary, especially a red past the crux bolt with #5-6 micro stopper to protect hard moves to reach the next to last bolt on PL.
By highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From: Colorado
6 days ago

I've seen this falsehood before. It pisses me off, not because I care about the route anymore but because what you're spreading is untrue. I give you benefit of doubt that you don't remember correctly but I bet you're just lying.

Before I start, Mark, you have my permission to add any bolt you want to this route, or chop them, or my personal favorite, dynamite the entire cliff band.

So a younger, stronger, more purist me found this line. In fairness, Kirk was there that same day. He was establishing what would become Pretzl Logic. It seemed odd, since it didn't follow the plumb (Hellhound is the plumb), but it wandered around to make it harder than the obvious line (Defective Agency is the obvious line). It's this weird inbetweener that isn't the plumb, isn't the easy line, and isn't the hard line.

Anyway, Kirk bolted Pretzl Logic first, like half an hour before I tried Hellhound, after I'd asked him to wait. Once I actually got on Hellhound, I was able to get multiple solid cams through the start. It was unfortunate, because you could easily reach Pretzl's bolts from there. I climbed a little higher, and it was blank. This is where a rock broke, making the route easy enough for me to climb. I nested half a ballnut and two lobes of something small and tagged up Kirk's drill. This is where I added one bolt. The one that is still there. I never added a second. After that bolt, I got multiple double Alien placements. Yes, I did clip more bolts from Pretzl (since it had once again wandered over to the plumb line) to check it out. When I did this, I immediately found bomber yellow and red Alien placements on the under side of the ear.

Kirk and I left that day neither sending anything, but there were 4 big, shiny bolts near really good placements. Within a few days, I came back and sent Hellhound (12c) belayed by Ken Trout, I only clipped the one bolt I added. That day I asked Kirk to remove those 4 bolts. He (I shit you not) actually said that maybe he should. I figured he'd do it, since it was a weird line and was unsent. A week or two or three later, he recruited stronger hands to send the route for him. A while after that and seeing a bunch of photos of the route on MP, I knew it was there to stay.

This pissed me off for two reasons. 1. Regardless of timing, it was a bad line. 2. I sent the proper line first, and the bolts there were tainting it. I had an injury that limited me to 9 functional fingers, so I hiked up there with a drill, bag of bolts, and a crowbar. I removed those 4 bolts. The two low and the two high that were basically directly on Hellhound.

I climbed around there, explored the top, and found that the direct line was A. easier (11a), B. didn't interfere, and C. was a ton of fun. So I bolted it. Tracy Roach showed up after work and belayed me on it. What I added was 3 bolts, and we had a stand alone (other than the anchor) line that was totally worth doing. It's not like Pretzl Logic ever disappeared either, but you'd need a handful of Aliens to finish. I never figured it would turn into an 8 year pissing match.

TLDR
Dumb wandering line got chopped in favor of 2 fun direct routes. I never added a bolt that I chopped.

If I had it to do again, I would have walked away. I wouldn't have climbed that route or any in the Easy Quarry. Much like many past relationships, it seemed OK at the time but isn't worth the drama in the long run.

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