Fun, short, overhanging climb that leaves you with a slight pump. The crux is trying to figure out how to clip the 4th bolt (it isn't very intuitive, and you don't need to use the small sloper/crimp).
This is the climb across from Bolt Ladder. It is the overhanging face just left of the arete.
4 bolts to 2 chains
From: Sandy, UT
Mar 29, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I was surprised to see that MP has this listed as a 5.11a. The book says that it is a 5.10d/5.11b. The way that I climb it, I would give it a 5.10c. I could see the route breaching the 5.11 ratings if you don't use the arete. Getting up to the fourth bolt and the chains, without using the arete, is pretty dicey and small. Overall, this is a great warmup route. I wish it were longer. I guess you can continue to the right and climb the slap to the top of that rock.
From: Taylorsville, Utah
Jun 17, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
If you're climbing straight up the face I could see how this would be 5.11, the beta I had used the very edge of the arete and seemed easier. Perhaps this is where the variation between 10d and 11b comes in
From: St. George, Utah
Jul 2, 2012
Climb the arete and hang a double draw on the 4th bolt so you can clip it from down below. Then climb face and you have your 11a.