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Placche Zebrate
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via 46th Parallel T 
Via Trento T 

Via Trento 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Season: dry and not too hot
Page Views: 675
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Feb 19, 2011

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Useful thread as pro on Via Trento

Description 

Smooth slab interspersed with grassy pockets, Via Trento is a much better climbing route than would appear from a distance. The route milks solid slab features for 5 or 6 pitches.

Start: the original route climbed just left of the trough but it appears that this pitch has fallen into obscurity. Some really poor looking old bolts can be found here. Instead, climb up and into the trough, joining the first pitch of “46° Parallelo” and ending the pitch at the left side of the channel.

Cross over and out of trough, trending to the left, and climb up through a nifty, smooth slab to a belay stance above a small break. The next couple of pitches climb up through cruxy 5.8ish slab features and grassy pockets, angling just a bit to the left, then up through a shallow corner.

One last smooth slab leads up then crosses over to the right onto lower angle terrain with some gravel filled holes (take care especially with parties below). Finish on much lower angle ground at the long, slanted bench atop the Placche Zebrate.

The route is fairly easy to follow, as, it connects weaknesses and has a fair number of bolts, some spread out quite far but noticeable from below.

Location 

On the far left (south) side of the Placche Zebrate, just slightly up from the base of the crag (near the bottom of the scree descent), locate a large smooth slab just above half way up the face. Left of this large slab is a lower angle trough with a number of trees and bushes in it. Just left of this grassy trough (the route “Via del 46° Parallelo”) is Via Trento.

Located to the right of “Gino Gianna”.

Route name may appear at the base of the route, but, may be hard to read/see.

Easy walk off on the climber’s trail to the south, over to the scree gully leading back to the base of the wall.

Take care to not knock off any loose rocks onto folks below.

Protection 

A set of quickdraw (8 to 10), a smattering of medium to large nuts, a few cams, and a half dozen thin slings for threads help supplement the sometimes sparse fixed protection on this route.


Photos of Via Trento Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fourth pitch of Via Trento
Fourth pitch of Via Trento
Rock Climbing Photo: Via Trento last pitch
Via Trento last pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the 2nd pitch of Via Trento  photo by ...
Starting up the 2nd pitch of Via Trento photo by ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up Via Trento. Photo by paintrain
Coming up Via Trento. Photo by paintrain
Rock Climbing Photo: Location of Via Trento is in the middle of this ph...
BETA PHOTO: Location of Via Trento is in the middle of this ph...
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up the second pitch of Via Trento
Coming up the second pitch of Via Trento

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