Via Ferrata 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 3 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Pitch 2 Mark Sprague 11/99, pitch 3 (the thing) Ted Hammond, Paul Cousar, Scott Stevenson, 1988 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Jul 9, 2007 |
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Description A great and exposed route that climbs all the way up Main Cliff.
Pitch one: 5.10a. Climb Underdog to its anchors, then traverse left past another set of anchors and a bolt to the anchors of Thin Man (5.13a). Belay from chains. 12 bolts.
Pitch 2: 5.11c. Climb up and right to a crack that heads right past more bolts. The feet on this part are weird but the hands are good crimps turning to jugs. Throw a heel and pull over in to an awkward stance. Pull up through one more tough roof and on to a good ledge with an anchor. 5 bolts.
Pitch 3: From the left end of the ledge, climb up through the roof and on to more moderate climbing to the top. 7 bolts to an anchor near the top of the cliff then lower back to the ledge.
Be careful of loose rock because you will likely be climbing above folks on the ground.
A 60m will get you to the ground from the top of pitch 2.
Location Start up Underdog.
Protection All bolts and bolted anchors. 12 draws and some slings and lockers for anchors should do you fine.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 29, 2007
| A hold broke, making one of the early clips on the second pitch much harder (you have to go past it), though the overall grade remains the same. The last pitch is recommended for the wild, exposed moves, even though the easier very top is a bit dirty. |
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Aug 15, 2010
| Any idea if this route is still in tact after the rock fall? |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 16, 2010
| yeah the rock fall wasnt near this climb.... GO FOR IT!!! |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 17, 2010
| Last time I was on this I noticed a large hold had a hairline crack behind it. It is right near the finish of the 2nd pitch, a big rounded hold on the little arete you throw out to, on the right of the finishing notch. Be careful, especially if people are below. I suggest giving a warning in case it pops. I am not sure if it can get a little tack behind it to keep it stable. |
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Feb 25, 2013
| I finally got on this over the past weekend (brrr) and it was pretty damn fun. I've NEVER seen anyone else on this. The clip prior to traversing the initial overhang is a little spooky but on big holds (past the clip you wish you had made). It wasn't until Jared pulled into the exit notch that he realized the slab was verglas - hah! Despite that, he didn't seem to have a problem getting to the anchor. Cool, albeit short, pitch. |
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