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(5) Grand Auditorium
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Arupa 
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Verdon du Taiwan 
Via del Drago 
Yellow Jasmine Beauty 

Via del Drago 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 213
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Dec 5, 2011
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Chester crushing it

Photo by Huang Liting

Description 

Pitch 1 - Climb through some choss and over grassy steps to a set of parallel dihedrals. Climb these (5.8) up to the ledge. Beware of loose rock along the way. Belay on gear at the ledge.

Alternatively, climb the first pitch of Yellow Jasmine Beauty, belay at the ledge, then do a short traverse right to the VdD belay ledge.

Pitch 2 - Start up the steep crack on fists and thrutches. The crack is flared inward, so it can be tricky to protect. Getting into the pod is the first crux. You can get a good rest here before you chimney out the right side. Pull yourself out of the overhang on arm jams, gastons, or any other kind of awkward maneuvering you can come up with. Once through this last bit of off-width, cruise overhanging but easier jams and face holds to an amazing belay perch. Belay on gear.

Descend - Forge upwards to the cape trail and descend via School Gate or Golden Valley; OR descend a faint trail back down to the base of the climb - there is one low 5th-class move.


Location 

From Music Hall, head right and up through the razor plants, gunning for the obvious crack at northeastern end of the auditorium.


Protection 

Gear to 4" - doubles in the bigger stuff



Photos of Via del Drago Slideshow Add Photo
Below the 1st pitch, the pod visible in top-left
Below the 1st pitch, the pod visible in top-left
1st pitch and the left arete visible from Freedom Crack
1st pitch and the left arete visible from Freedom ...
shot from atop Commissary Crack
BETA PHOTO: shot from atop Commissary Crack
If not for the bolts and the sound of crashing waves, we might have thought this was an alpine route...
If not for the bolts and the sound of crashing wav...
Huang Liting following the 2nd pitch
Huang Liting following the 2nd pitch
Comments on Via del Drago Add Comment
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By Anmin Deng
From: Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
Sep 3, 2012

The route of red solid line on the attached topo photo is not the route "Via del Drago". The route "Via del Drago" on the attached photo is on the right to the red solid line. It is an off width vertical crack on the slightly overhanging brighter color wall which faces to the right on the topo photo.

By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Sep 3, 2012

Photo has been edited to remove the red line which incorrectly indicated the route.

By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Jul 8, 2013

This route has expansion bolts at the top of the first and second pitch, but they probably won't be there for much longer. There are super-rusty hangers on them which should not be trusted. This is a trad route, and will probably remain so in the purest sense.

Bring gear for anchors and walk-off.