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Pedraforca
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Via de Tots T 

Via de Tots 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A0 R

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 13 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A0 [details]
FA: 
Season: spring to autumn
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Oct 7, 2012

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Getting ready for the final two pitches after lunc...

Description 

The route is long, steep slab with long distances between protection at times. The crux climbs steep grooves/canalones on spicy bolting. But, they're all new bolts unlike the buriles/rivets used on the FA. The climb is long and requires routefinding and good skills with placing protection. Helmets mandatory!

Location 

Begin left of center on the south face of the Pollego Inferior (smaller left peak). Two routes begin here, this one is the rightmost one. Near the base of the wall is a single old bolt: begin climbing right @ 15' . The start is up indistinct but noticeable holds up the steep slabby face; a few pitons and cords line the start. Descent is easiest to walk down the East face to the narrow notch connecting both sides and turn right to the base of wall. Better yet, rap the route.

Protection 

small to med nuts, single rack of cams from small to #3, anchors on every pitch are new rap rings, many new bolts and old pitons.


Photos of Via de Tots Slideshow Add Photo
This was the previous generation of protection on ...
BETA PHOTO: This was the previous generation of protection on ...
Marc on the crux pitch heading for the canalones a...
Marc on the crux pitch heading for the canalones a...
Finishing our ninth pitch on Via de Tots.
BETA PHOTO: Finishing our ninth pitch on Via de Tots.
The east face of Pedraforca. The Refugi is located...
BETA PHOTO: The east face of Pedraforca. The Refugi is located...
Marc and I near the summit.
Marc and I near the summit.
This is a photo of Pedraforca's 500m south face, t...
This is a photo of Pedraforca's 500m south face, t...
Here is Mark descending the Pollego Inferior ridge...
Here is Mark descending the Pollego Inferior ridge...

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