Veterans With Vertigo
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|Type: ||Trad, 8 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV|
|Consensus: ||5.12- [details]|
|FA: ||Topher and Patience Donahue and Steve Monks, 5/2001|
|Season: ||suprisingly good shade temps in summer|
|Submitted By: ||Jay Brown on Jul 23, 2011|
BETA PHOTO: Updated topo.
The crux is on the 6th pitch and is one of the best face pitches I've done down there! I don't know why there isn't more spray about this route.
P1. Climb thin .9+ on face/corner at left or scramble higher up right and climb a 5.8 corner to same belay, 100'.
P2. Climb straight up 100' of .10+ "reachy" fingers and hands to left traverse at grassy ledges to wide laybacks to belay. It is almost a full 70m!
P3. Stay left up the corner system past "techy stem corner (harder version of the "red dihedral" pitch on "No Country For Old Men", stay left over short corner roof with fingers to stance at huge flake. "The Crapper Belay", 180'.
P4. Go up short, .10, facey climbing to huge "walk-off" ledge, 100'.
P5. Head up right towards an acute, 12" deep, hands corner that is about 30' long to some easy varied climbing to a bolt/1 piece belay below the obviously good, pewter colored headwall, 180'.
P6. "Money Pitch"! Crank through the bolts and pins and a couple tiny placements for about 70-80' on perfect, crimpy, face climbing, 80'.
P7. Clip a bolt and continute up and left through some .11a R moves to blocky rock just next to and right of huge peg band till you see a bolt in the peg, go left across .10 move and up to ledge on left, 150'.
P8. Climb crappier rock straight up a left-facing corner for 35', then wander up right to huge ledge. Then go up 5th class to top out, 120'.
Scramble up 200-300' about 100' left of the "Comic" buttress.
A standard rack with extra small.
There are bolts and pins on the crux with a couple tiny placements. There is 1 semi-hanging belay, all ledges at other belays.
Top of 2nd.
The last pitch.
Following the crux.
|Comments on Veterans With Vertigo
|By seth c|
Sep 14, 2011
Climbed this route back in may. While there are some real serious parts on the route it is overall one badass climb. If you are looking for some good old Black Canyon adventure climbing, this is it. And the crux pitch is certainly one of the best face climbing pitches done there.