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Lime Kiln
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Unsorted Routes:

Vesper 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 2,935
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Mar 26, 2014  with updates from Brian in SLC

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Keith Ladzinski photo of Whitney Boland climbing V...

Description 

You've probably heard of this route. And for good reason. It's truly incredible.

To the left of the little cave, climb up some orange stone and around an arete onto a beautiful blue face and finish up and right to a 2 bolt anchor at a stance. Another option is to climb the pillar right of the cave via a newer route to a nice full on ledge. Both first pitch options are around 11+.

Launch from either belay onto the stunning blue headwall. Edge your way to the left side of the slash and follow it up and right through some harder terrain to a memorable runnel finish. Absolutely stellar climbing on world class stone.


Location 

To the left of the Grail on the obvious, tall, blue, right facing wall.

Protection 

12 draws


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By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I have never been to France. With that said this is the best piece of stone I have ever had the privilege to climb on. The first pitch is worth the second pitch...DON'T MISS THIS CLIMB.......
By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 17, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Pull some committing moves after the Hueco to a rewarding rest. The amazing slanting crack gets harder and harder as you climb up it till you get to the body position intensive crux at the lip. Amazing slopers, awesome crimps, and amazing position at the crux. Add the incredible stone and you have a super classic pitch of climbing! Only drawback is the hanging belay.
By SCherry
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 4, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Amazing and unreal pitch of climbing. As everyone says, the stone is superb, the moves engaging, fun and unique. Do this pitch!

After gathering as much beta as I could about the approach pitch here is my recommendation: Warm up first, then skip the harder 11+ options for pitches as they are just not that fun. Climb the 5.10a pitch (this is one route left of the 10d thats the left most route on the large blue/grey face) up to the Air France ledge on the right side of the gulley. Set up shop here on this comfy ledge, then clip 2 bolts and stem over to the left wall and climb Vesper.
By Ben Rodes
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 26, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Do the 10a approach pitch, not the best rock but the quickest way to get to the BEST limestone pitch I have had the pleasure of rock climbing. Killer line, many thanks to the F.A. I can't think of a more striking line.
By Cha Tate
From: Saint George, UT
May 27, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I have tried all the first pitch options (including off width up the right crack) and like the 11+ pitch (I would rate it 5.11a) right of the cave. Pull around the bulge and slither up some great stone with slab/stemming/jamming options, then up and right to the two bold anchor. Then pull stout moves after the first bolt to easier terrain leading to the traverse roof crux. Unbelievable movement on truly fine stone.
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