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 ADVANCED
The Northwest Passage
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
'Lectra Crack T 
Boar War S 
Cozened Stone S 
Double Creature Feature T 
Double D's S 
Forty Six and 2 S 
Friend Zone, The S 
Lateralus S 
Lord's Prayer, The S 
Pretty Good Face S 
Very Nice Crack T 

Very Nice Crack 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Hassig mid 80's
Page Views: 1,245
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Warning: this might be a bit painful.

Description 

It's name speaks true indeed. This is the "very nice crack" to the left of the mouth of the Northwest Passage Gully.

From the ledge grunt through tough fingers and ring-locks up a steep start to a wider and more moderate top on perfect hands and fists... top it out and belay from the top... This would be a 4 star route if it was cleaner and had a lower off anchor (edit- brand new glue-in top anchors added)... the bottom is nice and clean the top out is very dirty...

Definitely a contender for the best crack at rumney but Blackjack still wins it every time...

Location 

Head up along the left edge of the steep gully a little until you can scramble left on to the ledge to belay and sink you fingers in to this beauty...

Protection 

A small rack of cams from fingers to wide hands... Belay in crack on the ledge... Rap off of a near by tree or walk off to the left hooking up with a trail that brings you back around...


Photos of Very Nice Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Bruce getting off the ground on the difficult start.
Bruce getting off the ground on the difficult star...
My hand right where it likes to be locked in to a nice gritty crack...
BETA PHOTO: My hand right where it likes to be locked in to a ...
Wow, another splitter at Rumney... I'm in Love...
BETA PHOTO: Wow, another splitter at Rumney... I'm in Love...
Dave getting in to the good jams...
Dave getting in to the good jams...
Bruce trying really hard!
Bruce trying really hard!
Pulling off the ground.
Pulling off the ground.
Heavily edited photo of Bruce climbing.
Heavily edited photo of Bruce climbing.

Comments on Very Nice Crack Add Comment
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 30, 2013

TRed this while drilling holes for a top anchor, and unfortunately can't say it really lives up to its name or looks from below. It is a couple grunty, power layback moves in a sharp edged crack to one or two nice hand jams.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Oct 30, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Mark, who took that big tree down?
I was there earlier this summer and it was impossible to climb it.
Thanks to the brave who took it down...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 30, 2013

A mighty lumberjack. He also chopped up the one that had fallen over the start of Bbbutress.