Type: Trad, 4 pitches Fixed Hardware (3)
FA: Dave Dornan, Pete Lev, 1961. FFA: Pat Ament/Roger Briggs 196?
Page Views: 38,890 total · 138/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


361 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is one of the mega-classics in Eldo. Start on the same ledge as for the Yellow Spur, but down to the south.

P1. Climb the 5.9 or 5.6 variation up a right dihedral to a big belay ledge.

P2. Awkward and tough 5.9 moves past a bulge lead to easier rock above. Look for the bolted belay up and right of a slanted ledge before the obvious dihedral which is the crux of the route.

P3. The routes technical crux. 5.11b dihedral with some difficult stemming and interesting finger locks. It can be protected well with small cams and nuts. There is some great exposure on this one.

P4. The routes mental crux. 5.11a overhanging crack through a big ceiling. This is done with very solid jams and jugs, as well as great pro. Just plug the cams and go! If this pitch doesn't get you pumped by the amazing climbing and exposure, you should be a BASE jumper or fighter pilot. This is truly a wonderful and tough climb.

After topping out, downclimb to the west face of a big block, just north of the summit block, to locate a bolted rappel station.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a standard rack for Eldorado Canyon. The old pins that used to protect the dihedral crux are no longer there so bring some small Aliens and TCUs. Second and third pitches have bolted belays. Also, bring lots of hand-sized cams for the overhanging, crack pitch.

Photos

loading