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Dane Casterson on Vertigo. 5.31.07 Mike Morley.
This is one of the mega-classics in Eldo. Start on the same ledge as for the Yellow Spur, but down to the south.
P1. Climb the 5.9 or 5.6 variation up a right dihedral to a big belay ledge.
P2. Awkward and tough 5.9 moves past a bulge lead to easier rock above. Look for the bolted belay up and right of a slanted ledge before the obvious dihedral which is the crux of the route.
P3. The routes technical crux. 5.11b dihedral with some difficult stemming and interesting finger locks. It can be protected well with small cams and nuts. There is some great exposure on this one.
P4. The routes mental crux. 5.11a overhanging crack through a big ceiling. This is done with very solid jams and jugs, as well as great pro. Just plug the cams and go! If this pitch doesn't get you pumped by the amazing climbing and exposure, you should be a BASE jumper or fighter pilot. This is truly a wonderful and tough climb.
After topping out, downclimb to the north and west to find a rappel tree which can get to the ground in one or two rappels depending on if you have two ropes or not.
Bring a standard rack for Eldorado Canyon. The old pins that used to protect the dihedral crux are no longer there so bring some small Aliens and TCUs. Second and third pitches have bolted belays. Also, bring lots of hand-sized cams for the overhanging, crack pitch.
Starting up the roof pitch, circa 1993. Notice the...
BETA PHOTO: The view of Mickey Mouse Nailup from Peanuts Wall.
Enga Lockey leading the direct finish,
Leading the dihedral, circa 1983.
Joseffa just above the crux of the dihedral.
Joseffa cleaning pro and about to turn the lip of ...
The "thank-god" hold over the lip.
Bart Calkins on the crux pitch.
On the first pitch.
Second pitch below the roof.
Starting the crux dihedral.
5.9 first pitch.
Chad at the end of the crux moves.
Cruising over the roof on the last pitch....
Chasing the shade up Vertigo with Ol' Kenny P....
Derek Hersey soloing Vertigo (5.11b), Eldorado Can...
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 23, 2001
Pitches 1&2, 3&4 can be combined quite nicely. I've heard rumor that you can do the whole bloody thing in one pitch if you use a hanging belay in the groove just above the final overhang.
|By Mark Bockmann|
Sep 19, 2001
One key piece of beta that might save yourself a lot of time and aggravation: set up your belay right after the roof on the final pitch. Otherwise the rope is almost guaranteed to get stuck in the crack and your 2nd will have to prusik. I've seen this happen myself and heard many similar tales of woe. Luckily I had the beta myself and didn't have to deal with the problem.
|By Richard M. Wright|
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 19, 2001
This is good advice, however, the slot above the roof is very wide so you need to take some appropriate gear. Alternatively, run up to the end of the slot and set up a belay but have the leader clip their rope in high and work back to the end of the slot. This saves dragging along some very wide gear that is otherwise not needed.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 23, 2001
I climbed it on 9/23/01 and there was still one pin left at the crux of the third pitch.
|By Joe Huggins|
From: 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
Oct 15, 2001
An alternative to belaying just above the roof is to place a stopper in the crack to the right of the stance to keep the rope out of the crack; works just fine.
|By Aaron Reite|
Feb 9, 2002
Chris "the Duece" Dawson & I watched some poor saps in front of us struggle for about an hour trying to free their snarled line from the jaws of the roof crack. At the time (May 2001) there was a fixed nut right at the lip of the roof that would align your rope perfectly to get snagged when clipped. When I led, I placed a big cam (#3 camalot I think) immediately above the roof on the easier terrain & then reached down & unclipped the fixed nut. I had no problem at all with pulling the rope. I'd highly recommend removing any pro at the lip before you finish the pitch. Placing pro to the right like Joe suggests is also an excellent idea.
|By Bryson Slothower|
Jul 16, 2002
There is currently one fixed pin on the crux pitch and on 07/15/02 there was also a fixed nut just below the pin. The fixed nut mentioned in the comments above for the top of the final pitch is no longer there. The whole route protects well with singles of nuts, TCUs, and cams up to a #2 Camalot.....
|By Chad Stebbins|
Nov 11, 2002
The fixed pin is still on the 3rd pitch, the nut is not. It's easy to back the pin up with a green alien. On the 4th pitch, there is some webbing jammed in the crack about midway, that's currently the only "fixed" gear.
I'll echo what everyone has said about the rope getting stuck in the crack easily. Thanks to the comments on this site, we delt with the rope travel before it became a problem. If you don't deal with it it will get stuck.
May 7, 2003
There are three pieces of fixed gear on pitch 3: wires above and below the pin. Not sure why the pin is there, the crack takes great gear.
|By micah stocker|
Oct 25, 2004
This is a sick route, but after two years of wanting to do I think in my case I just made it out to be more than it really was. I guess I just wish the roof was another 15 ft long. However, I would settle for 5ft, it is that much fun! You can't beat the exposure. Hanging from the jug before the lip of the roof, getting a shake. Look between your legs. All you see is an awsome line. An overhanging Dihedrial, filled with all sorts of cool gear, then your belayer hanging off some bolts. Below them nothing but air for a real long way. My advice just go do the damn thing. Easier then the Edge! Woo Weee
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 22, 2005
One of the best routes in Eldo.The difficulty comes from the dihedral pitch, not from the roof pitch. The difficulty being more [dependent] on temperature and humidity than on any other subjective factor. This is presuming that shorter climbers also have better-suited thin fingers. The final roof is not so hard for experienced "steep" climbers, but slab masters might find some trouble turning the lip. The gear on the top half is "as you would like it"- that is to say, if you have the endurance, you can get overhead gear wherever you like and it's solid. Lastly, I think that the "awkward bulge" on the second pitch is awkward enough to merit the 5.10 grade rather than 5.9. Place protection before just getting there to reduce leg-shake once there. I made the mistake of running it out into that position last time I got on it. Yuck.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Nov 11, 2005
Climbed this yesterday for the first time and it was amazing. While sitting on the belay watching my partner make his way up the second dihedral I noticed a line to the left on the overhanging arete. I was wondering what the rating and name is of this pitch is, if different than Vertigo?
|By Dane Casterson|
May 31, 2007
Fantastic route! On the dihedral pitch, there is a fixed cam down low, a fixed nut, a pin, and another fixed nut. The fixed pieces sew up the crux section very nicely. And on the roof section, there is a large, fixed chock that has been slung and a 0.5 Camalot at the lip. The 0.5 will definitely hold some falls! Awesome!
|By Clint Locks|
Jun 16, 2007
As of 06/07, the slung chock (See Dane's comment) is still there. Fixed 0.5 is not. One pin left on the dihedral pitch. I suppose a person could run 1 and 2 together, if so inclined, but, however you do it, every pitch on this climb is simply spectacular!
Apr 21, 2008
This is the first route which has let me down at Eldo. I found the dihedral pitch to be a short one-move-wonder with fixed pin & stopper for the move. The roof pitch is CHOSS. The last flake on the roof flexes alot plus it's a jug haul to another one-move-wonder. Don't understand the hype.
|By max seigal|
Jun 14, 2008
Without a doubt this is one of the finest lines in Eldo. Every pitch is classic and there is an amazing variety of climbing throughout the four pitches. Absolutely fantastic.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Mar 12, 2010
No fixed gear in the crux dihedral except the pin as of 3-12-10.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 20, 2011
This is a great climb. Almost onsighted the dihedral but fell trying to reach for what would have been basically a bomber jug. Cruised the second time. There is one pin in the dihedral which can be backed up with yellow and blue TCUs. Flailed on the roof pitch because of rope issues. Don't place gear at the lip or if you do, remove it after you get past it because your rope will trap it and your second will make .11a look like .12a, especially if it's snowing....
|By Brett Brotherton|
From: Arvada, CO
Sep 10, 2011
The webbing in the roof looked like it was around a fixed stopper (just the stopper no wire). That being said I decided to plug a cam next to it, since there was bomber gear to be found everywhere on the roof.
|By Dane Casterson|
Feb 25, 2012
As I remember it, a #0.75 Camalot can be placed out left after turning the roof on p4. This piece holds the rope out of the crack nicely.
|By Moritz B.|
May 5, 2013
Today it was way too windy on the fifth pitch for us. It was way too cold to be enjoyable. We bailed off the fourth pitch and left a nineteen g carabiner on the pin in the crux. Whoever gets it, have fun with it :-)