Vertical Vice 5.8+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | TR: Mike Dalhberg & Melissa Quigly, FL: Nate Postma & Steve Wilgge |
| Submitted By: | Ian Harmon on Jun 6, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: New Vice Area showing Vertical Vice.
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Description The crux of this route is not slipping off the polished holds. Follow the line of bolts on the arete to the top using the sparkling polished holds en route.
Location This is the arete between Goofed On Skunk Weed and Pandemonium.
Protection 5 or so bolts, to a 2 bolt anchor. Please use your own equipment for top roping.
| Comments on Vertical Vice |
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By BrianUp
From: Charlottesville, VA
Jul 31, 2007
| I like this route. I'm 5'8" and some moves are a little challenge for a 5.8, but fun. |
By Mike Frost
Jun 6, 2010
| I've always enjoyed what I take to be the crux move on this climb. I do wonder what the route must have been like back when the moves on the arete weren't on foot holds worn polished by years of traffic. As a consequence it's either a little dicey for a new leader, or a little thrilling, depending on your philosophy. |
By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 11, 2010
| Should be renamed Butter-Coated-Teflon Arete. |
By Blake K
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 10, 2010
rating: 5.8+
| It'd be a little more fun if it weren't so slick... |
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