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 ADVANCED
New Vice Area
Routes Sorted
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Alligator Allimony TR 
B.F. Bugs S 
Blue Moon S 
Call of the Mild S 
Dealer's Choice S 
Doctor Limit S 
Doctor Rock S 
Eel Pocket Route TR 
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 
Eyebolt Approach TR 
Frequent Flatulence S 
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 
Jenna's Chimney T,S,TR 
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 
Living Postmortems S 
New Tomorrow S 
No Whippin Boys T 
Pandemonium S 
Pleasant Summer Absence S 
Prairie Fire S 
Syncopation T,TR 
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 
Two Tone Zephyr S 
Unknown S 
Vertical Vice S 
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 

Vertical Vice 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: TR: Mike Dalhberg & Melissa Quigly, FL: Nate Postma & Steve Wilgge
Page Views: 1,192
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on Jun 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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BETA PHOTO: New Vice Area showing Vertical Vice.

Description 

The crux of this route is not slipping off the polished holds. Follow the line of bolts on the arete to the top using the sparkling polished holds en route.

  • RCM&W #103 p.135.


Location 

This is the arete between Goofed On Skunk Weed and Pandemonium.


Protection 

5 or so bolts, to a 2 bolt anchor. Please use your own equipment for top roping.



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By BrianUp
From: Charlottesville, VA
Jul 31, 2007

I like this route. I'm 5'8" and some moves are a little challenge for a 5.8, but fun.

By Mike Frost
Jun 6, 2010

I've always enjoyed what I take to be the crux move on this climb. I do wonder what the route must have been like back when the moves on the arete weren't on foot holds worn polished by years of traffic. As a consequence it's either a little dicey for a new leader, or a little thrilling, depending on your philosophy.

By ferrells
Jul 11, 2010

Should be renamed Butter-Coated-Teflon Arete.

By Blake K
From: Carrboro, NC
Oct 10, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It'd be a little more fun if it weren't so slick...

By Dakota S.
From: Minneapolis,MN
Sep 28, 2013

This is not a 5.8. I would honestly say with the polished holds and crimpy moves, this would be a 5.9+. I am well within the 5.10 range and some have been easier than this. This is an underrated route but is also a lot of fun. Just prepare