Vertical Military Crawl
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BETA PHOTO: Vertical Military Crawl climbs the chimney behind ...
I saw this route about a year ago and came back with some big cams and realized even those were too small (or so I thought from the ground). I checked it out on TR and then free soloed it when my partner wanted no part of it despite it being a very clean crack (sport climbers, jeez).
Start 40ft left of Salsa Verde
and about 15ft. right of Death and Disfiguration
. Climb up a slab behind a pine tree to an enormously wide, left-angling crack in a left-facing corner. You can get some pro just before the wide crack, then pull the only technical move to get into the crack. From there, tunnel through the low-angled chimney to emerge on the east face. Surprisingly, there is a crack that takes gear inside the wide slot, though I doubt you could fall out even if you tried. The "R" or maybe only a "PG-13" comes from a small fall potential onto the slab near the tree before getting into the wide crack.
Standard rack will work just fine.
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 9, 2007
I love these tunneling routes. I did just like you, dropped my harness at the foot of the thing (the less gear to scrape the better), and slithered up onto the west face.
If you like these things (and I do) then go for it, but don't slip down that slab access.