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Vernal Walls

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After Becky T 
Dora The Explorer T 
Venous Vernish T 
Waltzing Wern T 

Vernal Walls 


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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 19, 2004
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Description 

The Vernal Wall is immediately south of the Bulkhead. The upper wall faces west and is visible from Rattlesnake Buttress.

The Vernulator (the lower wall) is shorter and faces south. It is immediately below the Bulkhead. The best descent is to the climber's right.


Getting There 

Either hike to the base of the Bulkhead and contour around its right side, or hike up along the left side of the Central Library. You'll come out on the north shoulder of the Vernal Wall.

The crags and routes are dedicated to Vern, whose vociferousness and voracious mania is much missed by the local climbing scene.


Climbing Season


4 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Vernal Walls:
Waltzing Wern   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
Browse More Classics in Vernal Walls

Featured Route For Vernal Walls
Thin, clean and hard.

Venous Vernish 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Vernal Walls
On the left side of Upper Wernal Walls are two cracks which lean left to right. The left one is wider and on the edge of the formation. The right one is in solid black varnish and ends in a section of white rock. At this point the route traverses into the left crack, passing through some fractured rock (probably PG at this point).Technical thin face and lie backing skills are required. Rarely do you find a jam, although solid gear is available for the whole crack. Small but solid fractures throu...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Vernal Walls Add Comment
Show which comments
By Vernon Stiefel
Mar 26, 2004

For those of you who visit this site looking for climbing beta versus dialogue, fueled by Judge Locker's ignominious ruling, about an accident that should be occuring between the parties involved in private then read on.

Many of the routes on the Wernal Walls and vicinity are incredibly fun and compelling. After climbing the classics "After Becky" and "The Waltzing Wern" you will leave bewildered that the FA's were done in 2004!! Multiple thanks to AJ, Murf, DEE, KD, and Rico!

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 6, 2006

This entire area is why visiting climbers say Josh is a pile. All the rock except for about 6 feet on any route is total choss with no redeeming qualities. I wish I had a pipeline to the chemicals the FAists were on when they thought this stuff was good.

By Murf
Dec 7, 2006

I think we may be having a knee jerk reaction from Russ and the Fish submen. There is some loose rock throughout the two walls that may or may not clean up with traffic. In terms of grade, if you didn't lead it, your grade should be taken with a grain of salt. As Russ surely knows grading FA's is a tricky thing, they often feel harder than they are. The approach may be long for some of Josh, but it ain't worth bitching about.

Given all that,some of the routes aren't worth repeating ( but some of them are ). That's the fantastic thing about MP.com, what would take years of word of mouth is instantly available.

Lastly, if you've never had a great day on new rock with some good friends, and subsequently sprayed about it, that's too bad. Is the Vernal Walls the end all be all of Josh? Hell no... but I had fun when I was there, sorry you boys didn't.

Fish n' submen, return the recommendation ( or sandbag ), let me know where I should go next. 'Cept none of that crazy bouldering stuff, way too hard on my knees.

By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 7, 2006

"That's the fantastic thing about MP.com, what would take years of word of mouth is instantly available."

Indeed. Instant feedback, and so we get the skinny from Russ, Will and Chris, which might save others from a long hike with little to no reward (climbing wise). It's not the hike mind you - it's what lies at the end of it.

It's great the FA party was psyched, and I'm sure they were/are, but obviously others had a different take on the area, and that's what this forum is all about. Remember, quality, and even to some degree difficulty ratings, are highly subjective.

That submen comment was hilarious...I know Chris and he's no subman.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 7, 2006

hahaha! I liked the submen quote too.... I've been led around by my schwanz by Chris for the last few weeks.

No knee jerk at all. Those routes are just plain junk. We do commend you though on the sandbag. A job well done!

By Murf
Dec 7, 2006

I thought Waltzing Vern was good, but I haven't led it. The rest I believe I gave 1 star, which have maybe pushed to 2 on the upgrade, maybe not ) which means worth doing, but not necessarily worth traveling for. Too bad you didn't do Quatro Manos or Detachable Penis, I like those two although they are short ( they are across the way ). Didn't really try to sandbag anybody, successfully or not. I'm glad you didn't get sucked up into the Valley of Kings, 'cause you really would have been pissed. That's not to say VOK sucks IMO, mind you.... I'm just saying.

Hopefully Chris and Will take the submen comment as well as everyone else.

Again, always looking for that out of the way wall I've missed, sandbags ( if that is the appropriate term ) welcome.

One thing is obvious, spend too much time at Josh, and your judgement will become suspect.