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Vermont 


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Administrator: Chris Duca
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Nov 27, 2006

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Myself leading third pitch. Vintage photo 1987, ph...

Description 

Many out-of-state climbers ask: "Is there climbing in Vermont?" My first temptation is to say "no", or "yes, but it's all on private property, and can't be climbed anyway, so it's useless to even try."

But realistically, Vermont has a long and storied history of bold first ascents and adventure climbing, that includes such pioneers as Fritz Weissner, John Bouchard, and Russ Clune. The Green Mountain State houses a large variety of climbing and bouldering on state and private land. And much of the outlying access issues that remain have been, or are in the process of, being smoothed out thanks to the tireless work of our local grassroots access group, Crag-VT (www.cragvt.org) Still, rock climbing in our state has its fair share of sensitive issues, so care must always be taken if ever there is doubt.

Be it schist, granite, limestone, or ice--Vermont has it all. Climbing ranges from thuggishly-steep to thin and technical, and from short bolted lines in Bolton Valley, to multi-pitch adventure climbing in the Northeast Kingdom and Smugglers' Notch State Park.
The climate and topography of Vermont offers visiting climbers a chance to sample a bit of everything, so long as you have a broad sense of adventure, don't mind getting be-knighted from time-to-time, and regularly like climbing in the face of adversity (read: Scottish weather.) Once past those minor hurdles (and after you drink the Kool-Aid!), you will, no doubt, find great pleasure in all that Vermont climbing has to offer.


Getting There 

Because our climbing is quite spread out, please refer to the area index for the best directions to the location you want to visit.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Vermont:
Last Gentleman   WI5     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade IV   Vermont Ice Climbing : Lake Willoughby
Mindbender   WI5+     Ice, 1 pitch, 225 feet, Grade II   Vermont Ice Climbing : Lake Willoughby
Called on account of Rains   WI5+ R     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade IV   Vermont Ice Climbing : Lake Willoughby
Who's Who in Outer Space   WI5     Ice, 3 pitches, 550 feet, Grade IV   Vermont Ice Climbing : Lake Willoughby
Pac-Man   V3-4     Boulder   Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa...
Nemesis Traverse   V5     Boulder   Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa...
The Impossible Problem   V7     Boulder   Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders
Shaker Heights   5.6 WI5     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   Vermont Ice Climbing : Lake Willoughby
Center Crack   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Deer Leap
Captain's Crack   5.7 PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton
Hush, Mama Thrush   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton
The Monkey   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Deer Leap
Crimp Chimp   5.9+ PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet   Bolton Area : 82 Crag
The Politics of Dancing   5.10a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet   Bolton Area : 82 Crag
The Rose   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton
A Minor   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton
Proud and Free   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Marshfield Ledge
The Doggfather   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Bolton Area : 82 Crag
Who's Your Daddy   5.12c     Sport, 50 feet   Bolton Area : Carcass Crag
Groton High Grade   5.13     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Marshfield Ledge
Browse More Classics in Vermont

Featured Route For Vermont
Blue Room Smuggeler's Notch

Blue Room WI3-4  VT : Vermont Ice Climbing : Ice climbing in Smugglers N...
THE classic route in Smuggs. (I'm surprised it hasn't made it in there before this.) It can be deceptively steep depending on how it forms. Usually has a cave in the middle. The left of the cave is usually steeper than the right. There is another pitch above but it isn't always in and most people do the first pitch only....[more]   Browse More Classics in VT


Comments on Vermont Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Goldsmith
Aug 28, 2011

The Deer leap webguide is back up. www.deerleapclimbing.com/ It is still badly out of date and needs corrections that neither Isa or I have time to do right now.. There are a bunch of new shorter spurt climbs down low and to the right as well as a few left of the lower tier mostly put up by Bob Gilito. Looks like Nick Hall freed Bag o tricks @ 10+ the Parking lot slab 5.5 is a good mixed beginner lead and just left of the approach trail right near the parking lot.

By Christian Prellwitz
Oct 26, 2011

anybody ever checked out these boulders? looks interesting...

www.windmillhillpinnacle.org/

scroll down to the bottom- 'Creature Rock'