Jake List on the first ascent of Enter the Dweezel...
Many out-of-state climbers ask: "Is there climbing in Vermont?" My first temptation is to say "no", or "yes, but it's all on private property, and can't be climbed anyway, so it's useless to even try."
But realistically, Vermont has a long and storied history of bold first ascents and adventure climbing, that includes such pioneers as Fritz Weissner, John Bouchard, and Russ Clune. The Green Mountain State houses a large variety of climbing and bouldering on state and private land. And much of the outlying access issues that remain have been, or are in the process of, being smoothed out thanks to the tireless work of our local grassroots access group, Crag-VT (www.cragvt.org) Still, rock climbing in our state has its fair share of sensitive issues, so care must always be taken if ever there is doubt.
Be it schist, granite, limestone, or ice--Vermont has it all. Climbing ranges from thuggishly-steep to thin and technical, and from short bolted lines in Bolton Valley, to multi-pitch adventure climbing in the Northeast Kingdom and Smugglers' Notch State Park.
The climate and topography of Vermont offers visiting climbers a chance to sample a bit of everything, so long as you have a broad sense of adventure, don't mind getting be-knighted from time-to-time, and regularly like climbing in the face of adversity (read: Scottish weather.) Once past those minor hurdles (and after you drink the Kool-Aid!), you will, no doubt, find great pleasure in all that Vermont climbing has to offer.
Because our climbing is quite spread out, please refer to the area index for the best directions to the location you want to visit.
Browse More Classics in Vermont
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Vermont:
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Featured Route For Vermont
: Vermont Ice Climbing
: Lake Willoughby
Located to the right of the Last Gentleman and to the left of Reign of Terror, The Promenade is one amazing route! The crux (5+) comes on pitch 2/3 (depending on how you break it up) and consists of a hanging curtain of hollow, chandaliered ice. Belay from the cave behind the curtain then grip it and rip it! Continue up past the curtain on a little more mellow ground. Find a good stance then one more hard pitch (5) to the top. We encountered a couple rock moves before reaching the trees so holst...[more] Browse More Classics in VT
|By Nick Goldsmith|
Aug 28, 2011
The Deer leap webguide is back up. www.deerleapclimbing.com/ It is still badly out of date and needs corrections that neither Isa or I have time to do right now.. There are a bunch of new shorter spurt climbs down low and to the right as well as a few left of the lower tier mostly put up by Bob Gilito. Looks like Nick Hall freed Bag o tricks @ 10+ the Parking lot slab 5.5 is a good mixed beginner lead and just left of the approach trail right near the parking lot.
|By Matt Wilson|
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 31, 2012
Looks like the coordinates for the Ethan Alan boulders are reversed, causing the map for Vermont to look terrible. Can that be fixed?
Aug 4, 2012
Just got back from Creature Rock (www.windmillhillpinnacle.org) There are a lot of potential lines to be sent, let me know if anyone is up for cleaning some rock and putting up lines.
Sep 18, 2012
Does anybody know if there are any lines up the chin at Camel's Hump. I hiked the Alpine trail up and there appeared to be an easy gully line and then some challenging possibilities on the steeper areas.
Sep 18, 2012
I answered my Camel's Hump question already... sort of. I read the specific rules on the hand out sheet you get at the trailhead, also available online, and it says rock climbing is forbidden. My assumption is that they want the alpine zone undisturbed outside of the trail itself. My rebuttal is, the area with potential climbing is 100% exposed rock, and once topping out one can probably rock hop back over to the trail with minimal difficulty---if no rope is used, and one scrambles up the easy gully, is that the "rock climbing" they have in mind? I suppose my question is now this: "Are you required to stay on the trails at all times above the tree line at Camel's Hump?" I don't want to disturb anything I am not supposed to, but I don't want to miss out on an awesome little line either.
|By Derek Doucet|
Sep 19, 2012
The summit area of Camel's Hump is one of only three areas of arctic / alpine tundra in the entire state. Please, please respect the guidelines the GMC and state naturalists have outlined and stay on the trail in these areas. Just because there is little obvious to you that might be impacted by scrambling doesn't mean it isn't there.