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Vermont 


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Location: 43.5963, -71.543 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Chris Duca, Luc, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Nov 27, 2006
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Blue Room Smuggeler's Notch

Description 

Many out-of-state climbers ask: "Is there climbing in Vermont?" My first temptation is to say "no", or "yes, but it's all on private property, and can't be climbed anyway, so it's useless to even try."

But realistically, Vermont has a long and storied history of bold first ascents and adventure climbing, that includes such pioneers as Fritz Weissner, John Bouchard, and Russ Clune. The Green Mountain State houses a large variety of climbing and bouldering on state and private land. And much of the outlying access issues that remain have been, or are in the process of, being smoothed out thanks to the tireless work of our local grassroots access group, Crag-VT (www.cragvt.org) Still, rock climbing in our state has its fair share of sensitive issues, so care must always be taken if ever there is doubt.

Be it schist, granite, limestone, or ice--Vermont has it all. Climbing ranges from thuggishly-steep to thin and technical, and from short bolted lines in Bolton Valley, to multi-pitch adventure climbing in the Northeast Kingdom and Smugglers' Notch State Park.
The climate and topography of Vermont offers visiting climbers a chance to sample a bit of everything, so long as you have a broad sense of adventure, don't mind getting be-knighted from time-to-time, and regularly like climbing in the face of adversity (read: Scottish weather.) Once past those minor hurdles (and after you drink the Kool-Aid!), you will, no doubt, find great pleasure in all that Vermont climbing has to offer.


Getting There 

Because our climbing is quite spread out, please refer to the area index for the best directions to the location you want to visit.


396 Total Routes


['4 Stars',36],['3 Stars',163],['2 Stars',146],['1 Star',44],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',16],['5.7',15],['5.8',15],['5.9',13],['5.10',36],['5.11',19],['5.12',13],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',37],['V2-3',145],['V4-5',27],['V6-7',21],['V8-9',8],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Vermont:
Crazy Diamond   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Glass Menagerie   WI5     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Hidden Gully   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 650'   Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin...
Jefferson Slide   WI2 M1-2 Mod. Snow PG13     Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 1 pitch, 60'   Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin...
The Promenade   WI5+     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 400'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
The Tablets Left   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Ragnarock   WI4+ M4     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'   Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin...
Last Gentleman   WI5     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 500'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Mindbender   WI5+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 225'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Primate   V3 6A     Boulder   Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders
Pac-Man   V3 6A     Boulder   Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa...
The Impossible Problem   V7 7A+     Boulder   Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders
Captain's Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton
Center Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Deer Leap
Hush, Mama Thrush   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton
The Rose   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton
The Politics of Dancing   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   Bolton Area : 82 Crag
The Thorn   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton
The Doggfather   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Bolton Area : 82 Crag
Who's Your Daddy   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 50'   Bolton Area : Carcass Crag
Browse More Classics in Vermont

Featured Route For Vermont
beans and sardine side

Beans and Sardines V6-7 7A+  VT : Mount Hor : Red Light District
Start on the downhill corner with a perfect pinch and an under cling. make a couple moves to gain a jug, then continue to move uphill on slopey crimps and heel hooks. finish with a technical topout up a small corner. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in VT

Comments on Vermont Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Goldsmith
Aug 28, 2011

The Deer leap webguide is back up. www.deerleapclimbing.com/ It is still badly out of date and needs corrections that neither Isa or I have time to do right now.. There are a bunch of new shorter spurt climbs down low and to the right as well as a few left of the lower tier mostly put up by Bob Gilito. Looks like Nick Hall freed Bag o tricks @ 10+ the Parking lot slab 5.5 is a good mixed beginner lead and just left of the approach trail right near the parking lot.

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 26, 2011

anybody ever checked out these boulders? looks interesting...

www.windmillhillpinnacle.org/

scroll down to the bottom- 'Creature Rock'

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 31, 2012

Looks like the coordinates for the Ethan Alan boulders are reversed, causing the map for Vermont to look terrible. Can that be fixed?

By Derek Doucet
Jul 26, 2012

Vermont's first rockclimbing guidebook is ready to ship in about a week. You can get them here: www.vermontrock.com/!

By TravisNE
Aug 4, 2012

Just got back from Creature Rock (www.windmillhillpinnacle.org) There are a lot of potential lines to be sent, let me know if anyone is up for cleaning some rock and putting up lines.

By balzano
Sep 18, 2012

Does anybody know if there are any lines up the chin at Camel's Hump. I hiked the Alpine trail up and there appeared to be an easy gully line and then some challenging possibilities on the steeper areas.

By balzano
Sep 18, 2012

I answered my Camel's Hump question already... sort of. I read the specific rules on the hand out sheet you get at the trailhead, also available online, and it says rock climbing is forbidden. My assumption is that they want the alpine zone undisturbed outside of the trail itself. My rebuttal is, the area with potential climbing is 100% exposed rock, and once topping out one can probably rock hop back over to the trail with minimal difficulty---if no rope is used, and one scrambles up the easy gully, is that the "rock climbing" they have in mind? I suppose my question is now this: "Are you required to stay on the trails at all times above the tree line at Camel's Hump?" I don't want to disturb anything I am not supposed to, but I don't want to miss out on an awesome little line either.

By Derek Doucet
Sep 19, 2012

Hey Balzano,

The summit area of Camel's Hump is one of only three areas of arctic / alpine tundra in the entire state. Please, please respect the guidelines the GMC and state naturalists have outlined and stay on the trail in these areas. Just because there is little obvious to you that might be impacted by scrambling doesn't mean it isn't there.

Cheers,

Derek

By edennis
Feb 16, 2014

I just saw the comment a few years back about creature rock in the Grafton area. I live nearby and am wondering if anything has happened at the site since the last post? Any climbing going on there? I'm curious to check it out.
-eric

By D.Buffum
Feb 21, 2014

Has anyone explored the area around White Rocks for bouldering? I would expect there might be something off the Hartsboro Road or Ice Beds Road.