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DescriptionHome to several of the best ice climbing venues in the lower 48. Smugglers' Notch, Lake Willoughby, and several other small, high-quality areas offer steep, continuously sustained, ice flows--and mixed climbing--from 50 to 500' in length. Approaches can vary from drive-up cragging (Bolton Quarry) to hour-long slogs (Smugglers' Notch and Snake Mountain) up steep, snowy slopes. Regardless, Vermont has it in abundance during the winter months. Getting ThereDepending on where you want to visit, directions can be simple or quite complex. It is best to reference the specific area you want to visit, and/or buy one of the many guidebooks available. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Vermont Ice Climbing:
The Tablets WI3-4 Ice, 2 pitches, 350 feet Lake Willoughby
Jefferson Slide WI2 M1-2 Mod. Snow PG13 Trad, Sport, TR, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 1 pitch, 60 feet Ice climbing in Smugglers N...
Twenty Below Zero gully WI4+ Ice, 2 pitches Lake Willoughby
Hidden Gully WI3-4 Ice, 3 pitches, 650 feet, Grade II Ice climbing in Smugglers N...
Blind Fate WI4 Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II Ice climbing in Smugglers N...
Float like a butterfly(land like a tomato) WI4+ Ice, 3 pitches Lake Willoughby
Last Gentleman WI5 Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade IV Lake Willoughby
Blue Room WI3-4 Ice, 1 pitch, 160 feet Ice climbing in Smugglers N...
Mindbender WI5+ Ice, 1 pitch, 225 feet, Grade II Lake Willoughby
Who's Who in Outer Space WI5 Ice, 3 pitches, 550 feet, Grade IV Lake Willoughby
Crazy Diamond WI4+ Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, Grade II Lake Willoughby
Ragnarock WI4+ Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Ice climbing in Smugglers N...
Called on account of Rains WI5+ R Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade IV Lake Willoughby
Glass Menagerie WI5 Ice, 2 pitches Lake Willoughby
Shaker Heights 5.6 WI5 Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III Lake Willoughby
Featured Route For Vermont Ice Climbing
Last Gentleman WI5 VT : Vermont Ice Climbing : Lake Willoughby
A classic long ice climb with alpine character at Willoughby. Last Gentleman climbs a huge, over 100 foot-wide ice flow at the back of the Last Gentleman Amphitheater. Usually done in 4 pitches but that can vary depending on the amount of meandering dictated by ice conditions. The below pitch-by-pitch break down is only approximate and describes how we did it on that particular day.Pitch 1: Traverse the left-leaning ramp past the bolt to the ledge at the bottom of a vertical flow...[more] Browse More Classics in VT |