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* Vermont Ice Climbing

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Lake Willoughby 
Smugglers Notch Ice climbing 
Williamstown/ Brookfield Ice 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Sunny Hollow Loop
A pretty thorough visit to Sunny Hollow. Near Winooski, VT
Henry's Highlands
A super intro to the Carse Hills trail system. Near Hinesburg, VT
Pinner
Combine with Slight Return for an easier loop in the Carse Hills. Near Hinesburg, VT
Blueberry Lake Loop
An IMBA Gateway trail network tucked into the Mad River Valley. Near Northfield, VT
Noodle's Revenge
A long, but fluid uphill, that for the majority of the run, is a fun cruise through ferny glades. Near Rutland, VT
The GMT Loop
This is the premier GMT tour: great views, stellar riding. Near Rutland, VT
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

* Vermont Ice Climbing  


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Location: 44.22552, -72.5867 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 76,650
Administrators: Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Sep 9, 2011
Forecast:
Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Chance of Snow
28° |
Snow Showers
31° | 18°
Overcast
32° | 14°
Overcast
36° | 18°
Clear
44° | 29°
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Belay at the end of the 2nd pitch. Pat McCarthy, 2...

For access issues: please review cragvt.org

Description 

Home to several of the best ice climbing venues in the lower 48. Smugglers' Notch, Lake Willoughby, and several other small, high-quality areas offer steep, continuously sustained, ice flows--and mixed climbing--from 50 to 500' in length. Approaches can vary from drive-up cragging (Bolton Quarry) to hour-long slogs (Smugglers' Notch and Snake Mountain) up steep, snowy slopes. Regardless, Vermont has it in abundance during the winter months.

Getting There 

Depending on where you want to visit, directions can be simple or quite complex. It is best to reference the specific area you want to visit, and/or buy one of the many guidebooks available.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.0 miles from here

36 Total Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for * Vermont Ice Climbing:
Float like a butterfly(land like a tomato)   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Twenty Below Zero gully   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
The Promenade   WI5+     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 400'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
ENT Gully Variation   WI3+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 03 - ENT Gully Area
Renormalization   WI4     Trad, Ice, 210'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Workout Wall   WI3-4     Trad, TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 01 - The Workout Wall
Grand Confusion   WI3     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 05 - Easy Gully Area
Last Gentleman   WI5     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 500'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Glass Menagerie   WI5     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Ragnarock   WI4+ M4     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 08 - Elephant's Head Area
Crazy Diamond   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Mindbender   WI5+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 225'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Blue Room   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 160'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 13 - The South Wall Area
Jefferson Slide   WI2 M1-2 Mod. Snow PG13     Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 1 pitch, 60'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 02 - Jeff Slide Area (aka T...
The Tablets Left   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Hidden Gully   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 650'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 10 - The Blind Fate Area
Zephyr   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI3+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Browse More Classics in * Vermont Ice Climbing

Featured Route For * Vermont Ice Climbing
Belay at the end of the 2nd pitch. Pat McCarthy, 2...

Last Gentleman WI5  VT : * Vermont Ice Climbing : ... : Mount Pisgah
A classic long ice climb with alpine character at Willoughby. Last Gentleman climbs a huge, over 100 foot-wide ice flow at the back of the Last Gentleman Amphitheater. Usually done in 4 pitches but that can vary depending on the amount of meandering dictated by ice conditions. The below pitch-by-pitch break down is only approximate and describes how we did it on that particular day.Pitch 1: Traverse the left-leaning ramp past the bolt to the ledge at the bottom of a vertical flow...[more]   Browse More Classics in VT

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