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Ice climbing in Smugglers Notch 
Lake Willoughby 

Vermont Ice Climbing 


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Administrators: Chris Duca, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Sep 9, 2011

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Myself beginning pitch two. Vintage photo 1987 by ...

Description 

Home to several of the best ice climbing venues in the lower 48. Smugglers' Notch, Lake Willoughby, and several other small, high-quality areas offer steep, continuously sustained, ice flows--and mixed climbing--from 50 to 500' in length. Approaches can vary from drive-up cragging (Bolton Quarry) to hour-long slogs (Smugglers' Notch and Snake Mountain) up steep, snowy slopes. Regardless, Vermont has it in abundance during the winter months.


Getting There 

Depending on where you want to visit, directions can be simple or quite complex. It is best to reference the specific area you want to visit, and/or buy one of the many guidebooks available.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Vermont Ice Climbing:
The Tablets   WI3-4     Ice, 2 pitches, 350 feet   Lake Willoughby
Jefferson Slide   WI2 M1-2 Mod. Snow PG13     Trad, Sport, TR, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Ice climbing in Smugglers N...
Twenty Below Zero gully   WI4+     Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby
Hidden Gully   WI3-4     Ice, 3 pitches, 650 feet, Grade II   Ice climbing in Smugglers N...
Blind Fate   WI4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II   Ice climbing in Smugglers N...
Float like a butterfly(land like a tomato)   WI4+     Ice, 3 pitches   Lake Willoughby
Last Gentleman   WI5     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade IV   Lake Willoughby
Blue Room   WI3-4     Ice, 1 pitch, 160 feet   Ice climbing in Smugglers N...
Mindbender   WI5+     Ice, 1 pitch, 225 feet, Grade II   Lake Willoughby
Who's Who in Outer Space   WI5     Ice, 3 pitches, 550 feet, Grade IV   Lake Willoughby
Crazy Diamond   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, Grade II   Lake Willoughby
Ragnarock   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Ice climbing in Smugglers N...
Called on account of Rains   WI5+ R     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade IV   Lake Willoughby
Glass Menagerie   WI5     Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby
Shaker Heights   5.6 WI5     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   Lake Willoughby
Browse More Classics in Vermont Ice Climbing

Featured Route For Vermont Ice Climbing
Belay at the end of the 2nd pitch. Pat McCarthy, 28 January, '08.

Last Gentleman WI5  VT : Vermont Ice Climbing : Lake Willoughby
A classic long ice climb with alpine character at Willoughby. Last Gentleman climbs a huge, over 100 foot-wide ice flow at the back of the Last Gentleman Amphitheater. Usually done in 4 pitches but that can vary depending on the amount of meandering dictated by ice conditions. The below pitch-by-pitch break down is only approximate and describes how we did it on that particular day.Pitch 1: Traverse the left-leaning ramp past the bolt to the ledge at the bottom of a vertical flow...[more]   Browse More Classics in VT