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Vermont Ice Climbing

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Lake Willoughby 
Smugglers Notch Ice climbing 
Williamstown/ Brookfield Ice 
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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Blueberry Lake Loop
An IMBA Gateway trail network tucked into the Mad River Valley. Near Northfield, VT
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The GMT Loop
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Cascada
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Fusters Trail
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Pipeline to Adam's Camp Loops
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Vermont Ice Climbing  


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Location: 43.98491, -72.29007 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 54,721
Administrators: Chris Duca, Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Sep 9, 2011
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Last Gentleman. Late afternoon view from the top o...

Description 

Home to several of the best ice climbing venues in the lower 48. Smugglers' Notch, Lake Willoughby, and several other small, high-quality areas offer steep, continuously sustained, ice flows--and mixed climbing--from 50 to 500' in length. Approaches can vary from drive-up cragging (Bolton Quarry) to hour-long slogs (Smugglers' Notch and Snake Mountain) up steep, snowy slopes. Regardless, Vermont has it in abundance during the winter months.

Getting There 

Depending on where you want to visit, directions can be simple or quite complex. It is best to reference the specific area you want to visit, and/or buy one of the many guidebooks available.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.2 miles from here

31 Total Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Vermont Ice Climbing:
Twenty Below Zero gully   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
The Promenade   WI5+     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 400'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Float like a butterfly(land like a tomato)   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
ENT Gully Variation   WI3+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 03 - ENT Gully Area
Grand Confusion   WI3     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 05 - Easy Gully Area
Renormalization   WI4     Trad, Ice, 210'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Glass Menagerie   WI5     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Hidden Gully   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 650'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 10 - The Blind Fate Area
Ragnarock   WI4+ M4     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 08 - Elephant's Head Area
Crazy Diamond   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Mindbender   WI5+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 225'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Jefferson Slide   WI2 M1-2 Mod. Snow PG13     Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 1 pitch, 60'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 02 - Jeff Slide Area (aka T...
The Tablets Left   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Blue Room   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 160'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 13 - The South Wall Area
Last Gentleman   WI5     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 500'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Browse More Classics in Vermont Ice Climbing

Featured Route For Vermont Ice Climbing
Bryan Barnett climbing the 2nd pitch of Blind Fate

Blind Fate WI4  VT : Vermont Ice Climbing : ... : 10 - The Blind Fate Area
Second pitch is the money pitch.P1. Climb up ramps and bulges to through one 3+/4 section of climbing to the base of the curtain to the top. (mostly 3+ climbing) Great anchor location at the left of the 2nd pitch just below the overhanging rock. (no known fixed anchor)P2 climb up and right and up final column for 50-75 feet. Anchor on right side about 10' beyond lip of the gully....[more]   Browse More Classics in VT

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