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Vergin' on Perversion 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: DeMallie & Hare - 1989
Page Views: 1,137
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 12, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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  • Description 

    Vergin' on Perversion climbs the arete just right of the obvious Perversion dihedral system. The line is a bit contrived in places, but the rock and climbing is brillant. Two or three stars for the first three pitches for sure.

    P1: Scramble up and left on some ledges and start up a thin crack with two or three bolts. About 50' up you can step right, following a line of bolts around the arete. Belay on an obvious ledge at a single bolt and some gear. 110' 5.11a.

    P2: Climb a short (30') dihedral. It would be sensible to link this with either P1 or P3. Belay on a ledge. 5.9.

    P3: Follow the line of bolts back out to the arete, and eventually around the corner (crux). There are two 5.11 sections on this pitch. Belay at two bolts. 115' Quickdraws only for this pitch.

    P4: Wander up and right, passing a tree on your left, on easy ground. Perform an unprotected 5.8ish move at the arete (lots of lichen here), then step up and slightly left to clip the lone bolt on this pitch. An easy 5.10 face move gains easy climbing to the top. 120' 5.10a.


    Protection 

    Single set of cams to #0.75 Camalot, wires, 10 draws.



    Photos of Vergin' on Perversion Slideshow Add Photo
    Near the top of the 10 approach. I was getting rope drag from the blocks down low, but I don't think the rope was running as badly as it looks in this photo. Photo by Lenny Miller.
    Near the top of the 10 approach. I was getting rop...
    The reach at the second bolt on the arÍte (5th bolt overall). Photo by Lenny Miller.
    The reach at the second bolt on the arÍte (5th bol...
    Hand traversing right to set up the move at the second crux bolt. Photo by Lenny Miller.
    Hand traversing right to set up the move at the se...
    After the last hard move. After the first two juggy moves you end up on big feet and crimps. One more high step, and you're done. Photo by Lenny Miller.
    After the last hard move. After the first two jugg...
    Comments on Vergin' on Perversion Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 15, 2005

    Josh, where is the "s" on this route? I did it many years ago, and I don't remember anything too scary. Maybe, on the first pitch? Or the last pitch?

    By Josh Janes
    Nov 15, 2005

    The runout is on the last pitch - heading up to the lone bolt. If you did OK on the 5.11c, then it's unlikely you'll have a problem, but the fall would be pretty bad.

    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 16, 2005

    Thanks, Josh! Then, I don't recommend anyone avoid this route because of the "s" in the rating. I was barely able to second the 5.11 pitches, yet I led the last one and have no memory of being worried.

    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Sep 20, 2009

    P1 is good by itself as a long 10 mixed section to the 11a bolted crux. There were several hard moves on the 10 section with some funky rock. There was one runout near the top where you start a 9 sequence with the gear below your feet. You may be able to sling a thin and doubtful flake on the right if you are tall enough. There are 3 bolts near the bottom and 3 bolts at the 11a crux plus another higher bolt. I used gear to a gold Camalot. There may be placements for bigger cams to #4 Camalot. At the ledge, it's best to use a very long (triple length) sling on the single bolt and then move left and belay from gear at the bottom of the Perversion corner. You can then escape left to rap from a tree.

    By Ross
    From: Pinewood Springs
    Feb 1, 2010

    Walking up to do this climb without prior knowledge, it is easy to miss the traverse right on P1 when the crack closes at the ramp 3/4 way up, I fumbled around there for a good 5-10 minutes before I saw the bolt on the right. The 11a was above this was just great.

    And then after the crux on P3, I totally missed the traverse step right and over to the little ledge. Instead, natural instincts lead me to the left (wrong) and up easy ledges, DOH! That's what I get for not paying attention to the topo. But I lowered off that upper bolt and did those sweet moves.

    Brilliant climb and doable for a 11a leader as it's easy to pass the 11c crux by holding the QD to grab the next hold.

    P4 had snow and ice on the ledges but was still fun, I got the smallest RP in to protect the moves up to the bolt, 9.