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Venus Wall
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Black Diamond Raven Ice Axe

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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Constipation Prize 
Dirtigo 
Little Mermaid 
Mercury 
Mountaineer's Crack 
Mowgli Grape 
Neptune 
Preppy's Crack 
Shame on a Chippa 
Venus Envy 
Venus on a Halfshell 
Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The 

Venus Wall 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006

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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Clear
73° | 45°
Clear
77° | 48°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
79° | 55°
Partly Cloudy
77° | 57°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
82° | 59°

Venus Wall and the waterfall after a rainy evening...

Description 

Though technically part of Main Cliff, Venus Wall is far enough removed from Main Cliff proper that it feels like its own area.

The wall is steadily overhanging, and by some strange quirk of geology, almost every hold on the wall is a crimp. If you get frustrated with your feet skating on Main Cliff's smooth smears, or if you need a break from Waimea's weirdly technical sequences, then head to the Venus Wall for some good old-fashioned crimp tugging.

The climbing on the Venus Wall has been compared to the climbing at the Red River Gorge, both being pumpy and sustained. The catch? Venus Wall is about 40 feet tall. So, if you like enduro crimping, but don't have crazy endurance, then Venus Wall is your place.

Plus, a seasonal waterfall (The grade 4 ice climb Selsun Blue) adds to the ambiance of the area.


Getting There 

Venus Wall is eaily reached by following directions to the Main Cliff and traversing the cliff line left.

Alternately, walk down the road to the point where the Baker River is the closest to the roadside. Head uphill on a steep, direct trail. Upon reaching the cliff, turn left. After periods of rain (which is just about all the time in New Hampshire), look for the waterfall. Venus Wall is to the left.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Venus Wall:
The Wimpy -Gilman Ridge   5.3     Sport, 1 pitch   
Dirtigo   5.3     Sport, 1 pitch   
Mowgli Grape   5.4     Sport, 1 pitch   
Venus on a Halfshell   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Little Mermaid   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Mercury   5.12d     Sport, 40 feet   
Neptune   5.13a     Sport   
Shame on a Chippa   5.13c     Sport, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in Venus Wall

Featured Route For Venus Wall
Adam Holmes eyes the next crimp.

Venus on a Halfshell 5.12c  NH : Rumney : Venus Wall
Endurance crimping. Forty feet of climbing that feels like 80. No rests and no stopper moves. A looming redpoint crux. This is Venus on a Halfshell.Stick clip the first bolt and crank a surprisingly hard move to get established on the wall. Continue through a roof, past a big hold that looks like it offers a decent rest. It doesn't. The crimps continue. A hard clip. Funny pockets that are really just crimps anyway. A big crimp that allows a shake. And the last hard move: a spock hold that feels ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH


Photos of Venus Wall Slideshow Add Photo
rachet working Venus

rachet working Venus

this is me on the day i sent Venus on a Halfshell

this is me on the day i sent Venus on a Halfshell

The routes on the left side of Venus Wall... All very fun...

BETA PHOTO: The routes on the left side of Venus Wall... All v...

another overhead map... including the newer moderate routes in the gully to the right...

BETA PHOTO: another overhead map... including the newer modera...


Comments on Venus Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 23, 2007

Though I agree that the left (steep, hard) side of the cliff is the best part, I must note that on the right side of the waterfall, you will find a gully that is home to some great super moderates.... one of the best things about Rumney is that people take the time to clean and bolt true beginner climbs for folks to learn the basics and that gully is the place to be for people just starting out and maybe a little nervous about leading....

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 27, 2007

The top of this cliff can be easily accessed via a gully left of Neptune/Venus