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Venus Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Constipation Prize S 
Dirtigo S 
Little Mermaid S 
Mercury S 
Mountaineer's Crack T 
Mowgli Grape S 
Neptune S 
Preppy's Crack S 
Shame on a Chippa S 
Venus Envy S 
Venus on a Halfshell S 
Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The S 

Venus Wall  


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Page Views: 31,879
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The routes on the left side of Venus Wall... All v...

Description 

Though technically part of Main Cliff, Venus Wall is far enough removed from Main Cliff proper that it feels like its own area.

The wall is steadily overhanging, and by some strange quirk of geology, almost every hold on the wall is a crimp. If you get frustrated with your feet skating on Main Cliff's smooth smears, or if you need a break from Waimea's weirdly technical sequences, then head to the Venus Wall for some good old-fashioned crimp tugging.

The climbing on the Venus Wall has been compared to the climbing at the Red River Gorge, both being pumpy and sustained. The catch? Venus Wall is about 40 feet tall. So, if you like enduro crimping, but don't have crazy endurance, then Venus Wall is your place.

Plus, a seasonal waterfall (The grade 4 ice climb Selsun Blue) adds to the ambiance of the area.

Getting There 

Venus Wall is eaily reached by following directions to the Main Cliff and traversing the cliff line left.

Alternately, walk down the road to the point where the Baker River is the closest to the roadside. Head uphill on a steep, direct trail. Upon reaching the cliff, turn left. After periods of rain (which is just about all the time in New Hampshire), look for the waterfall. Venus Wall is to the left.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.0 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',3],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Venus Wall:
Dirtigo   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Sport, 1 pitch   
The Wimpy -Gilman Ridge   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Mowgli Grape   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Venus on a Halfshell   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Neptune   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Venus Wall

Featured Route For Venus Wall
Emile hitting the deadpoint slot on neptune

Neptune 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  NH : Rumney : Venus Wall
Neptune is a popular linkup on the Venus wall, so popular that the routes that comprise its start and finish rarely get done. Start on the far left side of the wall and climb the first two bolts of Mercury (12d). Then, cut right and climb two bolts on Venus. Cut right again and finish on Shame on a Chippa (13c). Endurance is the name of the game, as the crimps just keep coming. The similarities to Venus are striking, as Neptune has a hard start that leads to a sustained middle. Finally, a low p...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Venus Wall Slideshow Add Photo
rachet working Venus
rachet working Venus
Venus Wall and the waterfall after a rainy evening. We have a lot of water here in New Hampshire.
Venus Wall and the waterfall after a rainy evening...
this is me on the day i sent Venus on a Halfshell
this is me on the day i sent Venus on a Halfshell
another overhead map... including the newer moderate routes in the gully to the right...
BETA PHOTO: another overhead map... including the newer modera...

Comments on Venus Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 23, 2007
Though I agree that the left (steep, hard) side of the cliff is the best part, I must note that on the right side of the waterfall, you will find a gully that is home to some great super moderates.... one of the best things about Rumney is that people take the time to clean and bolt true beginner climbs for folks to learn the basics and that gully is the place to be for people just starting out and maybe a little nervous about leading....
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 27, 2007
The top of this cliff can be easily accessed via a gully left of Neptune/Venus