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The Venus Caves

The Venus Caves Rock Climbing 

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Location: 43.80197, -71.83849 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 268
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Apr 23, 2012
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If you follow the 'Short Cut' trail left from the top of the long wooden stairs that lead up to the Armed and Dangerous area of the Main cliff, traversing the hillside and then up like you were heading to Bonsai, just where the trail turns sharply left to above Monsters, if you turned right instead (towards the Venus Wall), just above the path there is an overhanging ledge of highly featured rock, with a couple steep caves. The rock is covered with positive holds and big pockets and has the potential to be a super fun area for steep jug hauling. Classic lines have been climbed over the years, but none recorded yet. It is still a very raw area so doesn't get the attention it deserves. To get the most out of the area, expect to spend time with your scraper and brushes and maybe a hammer to rub over the fish hook spines on the pockets.

You can also get here by following the trail west for a few minutes from the Main Cliff's Venus Wall.

Getting There 

From the small parking lot, walk the path and up the stair that lead to Armed and Dangerous wall. Go left and walk past the Venus Wall, past the very dirty short cliff ban that is refereed to as The Bradley White Wall, and there will be a short band of ledge on your right, just before you get to the Short-Cut Trail. That's the spot.

Climbing Season

For the *Rumney Bouldering area.

Weather station 10.1 miles from here

Comments on The Venus Caves Add Comment
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By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
Oct 1, 2013
My goodness, those holds are sharp.... This thing needs some traffic!
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 1, 2013
Yeah, the pockets need a ball-peen hammer rubbed over the spines. It would then be a very nice spot. I started when I did a few routes there years ago, but never finished. It needs a team effort.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 2, 2014
Matt, I changed the name from Boulders to Caves..seemed more accurate and maybe it will get people to put the time into cleaning that it deserves :))

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