Venus on a Halfshell 

Goodness gracious this climb is hard...

talk about a redpoint crux!... that last move is a tough one... i fell 4 times from the last move (over 3 days) before finally sending today... what a great route, a true test of endurance and technique...

great description jay! and geez this route looks hard! i wanna get on it but im kinda scared lol :)

Does this route remain climbable during the winter months?

Mostly. You have to be carefull of falling ice from the right though.

I find this wall tough to climb in the cold months due to the fact that there arent any good rests for getting feeling back in the fingers... but on a freak warm day it shouldnt be bad and the ice fall should be avoidable...

the best month for this wall is probably october and... oh... look what month it is :)

Nice I want to get on it soon!

repeated it today after 3 years without trying it... hasnt gotten any easier... that last move is harder for ME than anything on Neptune...

Setting up for the last move was VERY painful for me on the left ring and pinky fingers. So painful in fact that I abandoned all hope that I can ever redpoint this route. Great climbing up to there however. Pumpfest.

Lee aka Me, taking a burn on Venus... fell at the top due to numb fingers on this go, which sucks cause it was upper 50s that day!
i was happy to send on my next go...

I tried this route the other day for the first time and at the "redpoint crux" I didn't like the feel of the pocket so I used a crimp lower down and to the right a little that got rid of the long reach to the pocket but made the next move a long lock-off. Does anyone else use this or have ever tried it that way?

Kevin, I can't say I've tried to use the crimper you mentioned. I can't remember if I even noticed it. I am not good at long lock-offs; weak and have short arms.

kevin... i dont like the pocket either, i use a micro crimp right in the same area (a little above i think, like an inch)... ive never tried your beta but that wont surprise you at all :)