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Venus Wall
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Venus on a Halfshell S 
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Venus on a Halfshell 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Jacobson and Scott Stevenson, 1990
Page Views: 4,638
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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No easy moves, no super hard moves just good crimp...

Description 

Endurance crimping. Forty feet of climbing that feels like 80. No rests and no stopper moves. A looming redpoint crux. This is Venus on a Halfshell.

Stick clip the first bolt and crank a surprisingly hard move to get established on the wall. Continue through a roof, past a big hold that looks like it offers a decent rest. It doesn't. The crimps continue. A hard clip. Funny pockets that are really just crimps anyway. A big crimp that allows a shake. And the last hard move: a spock hold that feels oh so slipery when the strength is ebbing. A jug to clip the anchors. Lower down. Shake head. That was a great route, wasn't it?


Protection 

5 bolts.



Photos of Venus on a Halfshell Slideshow Add Photo
Coming out the roof down low while otey looks on...
Coming out the roof down low while otey looks on.....
Jakob going for the last big move on the route!!! its crux time... get some!!!
Jakob going for the last big move on the route!!! ...
the lower part of Venus... what a great route...
the lower part of Venus... what a great route...
Adam Holmes eyes the next crimp.
Adam Holmes eyes the next crimp.
Aryesh cruising the first section of venus.
Aryesh cruising the first section of venus.
Jakob reaching
Jakob reaching
Such a beautiful route.
Such a beautiful route.
Jakob back when climbing only happened in black and white...
Jakob back when climbing only happened in black an...
Comments on Venus on a Halfshell Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 4, 2014
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 13, 2007

Goodness gracious this climb is hard...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 20, 2007

talk about a redpoint crux!... that last move is a tough one... i fell 4 times from the last move (over 3 days) before finally sending today... what a great route, a true test of endurance and technique...

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
May 10, 2009

great description jay! and geez this route looks hard! i wanna get on it but im kinda scared lol :)

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 1, 2010

Does this route remain climbable during the winter months?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 1, 2010

Mostly. You have to be carefull of falling ice from the right though.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 1, 2010

I find this wall tough to climb in the cold months due to the fact that there arent any good rests for getting feeling back in the fingers... but on a freak warm day it shouldnt be bad and the ice fall should be avoidable...

the best month for this wall is probably october and... oh... look what month it is :)

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 1, 2010

Nice I want to get on it soon!

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 14, 2010

repeated it today after 3 years without trying it... hasnt gotten any easier... that last move is harder for ME than anything on Neptune...

By S. Neoh
Oct 14, 2010

Setting up for the last move was VERY painful for me on the left ring and pinky fingers. So painful in fact that I abandoned all hope that I can ever redpoint this route. Great climbing up to there however. Pumpfest.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 16, 2010

Lee aka Me, taking a burn on Venus... fell at the top due to numb fingers on this go, which sucks cause it was upper 50s that day!
i was happy to send on my next go...

By Kevin Macartney
From: Bozeman, MT
Jan 9, 2012

I tried this route the other day for the first time and at the "redpoint crux" I didn't like the feel of the pocket so I used a crimp lower down and to the right a little that got rid of the long reach to the pocket but made the next move a long lock-off. Does anyone else use this or have ever tried it that way?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 10, 2012

kevin... i dont like the pocket either, i use a micro crimp right in the same area (a little above i think, like an inch)... ive never tried your beta but that wont surprise you at all :)

By Christop F
Oct 21, 2013

I got on Venus today and one of the crimps you move off of at the third clip broke. It must of happened over the weekend ( I was on it last week and it was fine) so now it's even more sustained and seems much harder at that section to me.

By jdavis
From: New Hampshire
Oct 22, 2013

Was it one of crimps to the left of the bolt above the roof (where the Neptune linkup meets Venus), or one of the holds near the next bolt? A friend and I were on it Sunday and didn't notice anything broken, and it felt about the same to me as it did two weeks ago (really hard).

By Christop F
Jun 10, 2014

Fresh glue in bolts put in!

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 10, 2014

Yup, thanks to your RCA memberships and donations and lots of work by DQ and Chris. Some of those old bolts were in pretty sad shape on the inside.

By Eric Leclerc
Jul 14, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I have to agree with Christop F. The second rail after the third bolt lost part of the crimp for your right hand. Both rails could be matched with the two hands and they were both alright before it broke.
You can see a fracture line on the right side of the second rail. I remember having enough room on the lip for four digits of my right hand and the next cross over move with my left hand way higher was the crux but it was not that difficult. I went on it this week end and there is only space for two digits on the lip. The other two digits cannot pull anymore which makes the crux way stiffer. For this reason, I recommend 12d for Venus. More people will have to go and comment about it.

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 4, 2014

I have been working this for the past few weeks and I never remember the third bolt being a big crux but that is where I keep getting shut down and one hanging now. I would love to know others input on whether this is upgraded to 12d or not.