Venus' Flytrap (Left)
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BETA PHOTO: The 5.8 all gear variation of Venus' Flytrap.
The crux of this route is at the top. It is airy but well protected by #3 and #4 Camalot.
Venus' Flytrap is a climb described in "Steigers Guide" as a neglected route with variations that follow cracks on the narow west face. Pg. 79. of the 1985 John Steiger guide (Climbers Guide to Sabino Canyon and Mount Lemmon Highway)
This route is located on the west end of "Chimney Rock" on the downhill side. This area is visible when driving up the road and accessed by walking left past "Georges Buttress" following trail carefully crossing some broken slabs. Scramble 4th class boulders as the trail then contours right towards the west end of "Chimney Rock" being careful to not dislodge rocks onto the road!
Approach time approx. 10min. from the base of "Georges Buttress." This area was cleaned up with the help of Christian Rodenbeck, Robert Mcleod, Andy Tretiakoff and Nick Spriggshall. Follow cracks left of the squeeze chimney.
Small Tcu's and Camalots to #5. Two bolt anchor at top with Fixe rap rings.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 13, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This route gets an extra star from me for the uniqueness. But there's no way this is only 5.8 if 8th and Main is also 5.8 (which it felt like to me). It's pretty casual until the crux, and then...blamo!