As the name suggests, this route is great for those who have not risen to the level of Venus on a Halfshell (5.12c). Though not as classic as its neighbor, it is fun on those occasions when it is dry. It lives in a waterfall all spring, and is a wall of ice in the winter. It can be a good warm up for the crimpfest routes to the left.
Start up the corner on easier but sometimes dirty or spider-infested rock heading up and right. The crux steps left on to steep rock for a brief section of difficulty followed by an anchor.
Venus Envy starts in the shallow corner between the steep, clean, left side of the cliff and the dirty, unused, waterfall section of rock.
7 bolts to anchor.
lily clipping up Venus Envy...
Lily reaches the anchor... and a photographer...
Lily warming up on Venus Envy...
lilt doing what she does best... crimping...
lily feeling for the holds as things get steeper r...
BETA PHOTO: the rusty anchor of Venus Envy... hey you wouldnt ...
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 20, 2007
i climbed this one today and was sketched out by the super rusted anchor... the lower rings are ok but the the glue-ins and links are wicked rusty... just FYI...
From: Somerville, MA
Aug 2, 2010
Same for me, Lee - except I was sketched enough to use the anchor to the left instead. Given that the glue-ins and quick-links are completely covered with rust and the rap rings don't have a spot, are we looking at a mixed stainless/non-stainless issue here?
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 18, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This route is worth doing if dry, not classic but has some really fun moves. The anchors are sketchy for sure but they held me :)
Sep 21, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R
definitely clip the anchors to the left. The ones at the top of this climb are scary rusted.
|By Jake D.|
Dec 8, 2010
Exactly how is a well bolted sport route R rated exactly? :eye roll:
|By S. Neoh|
Dec 8, 2010
Jake, I scratched my head upon reading that as well until I realized that the "R" is for the Rusty anchors at the top of this climb.
I would probably traverse left and use Neptune's acnhors, as he suggested, if I ever find myself cleaning draws off this climb.
|By Peter Jackson|
From: Rumney, NH
Oct 6, 2013
I climbed this today and really liked it. The bottom was very sharp, but the business up top had more comfortable holds. Don't bail because of the sharp stuff! (It left me very bloody handed, though.)
Not sure who did the job, but the anchors have been replaced with all-stainless gear. They looked good to me today (although the corroded stuff in the photos also looked OK to me: plenty strong in spite of the rust). Galvanic corrosion was certainly part of the equation, but I suspect it had more to do with Selsun Blue forming and the waterfall running over it for 50% of the last 15 years.