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Routes in Lankin Dome
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Cowboy Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Crevasse Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Heart of Stone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mercury Rising T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Planet Earth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Red Nations T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Running Out of Blow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sky Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Star Jumper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Tree Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Venus and Mars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Greg Collins, Rob Hess 1990 |
| Page Views: | 3,594 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | bob branscomb on Mar 24, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Sticky situation
Details
This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Access Issue: Close gates after passing through
Details
For respect of the local ranchers, always close the gates after passing through. Approach from the Nolan Pocket side is usually not restricted but there are closures for grazing leases on the Lankin Gap side from March-June. Be polite and non-confrontive to ranchers.
Description
An outstanding route, but you have to really have it together (solid 5.9 leader) to keep your cool on the last pitch. This route starts in the sandy area below and right of the start to the Tree Route. A bolt will be seen about 25 feet off the ground on the slab. This is the only pro for the first pitch, which starts out 5.5 by the bolt but rapidly goes to class 4 as you ascend to a 2 bolt belay. The second pitch goes over a 5.8 wall above (bolts), then works up and left into a bowl (no pro) below and right of the chopped up looking pinnacle. Climb (5.8) directly up to the right of this pinnacle past several bolts. At the last bolt, traverse straight left the belay ledge at the top of the pinnacle(gear belay). The 3rd pitch is the crux. Proceed up and sltly right to a bolt, then over a couple of 5.9 bulges (bolts) to a horizontal seam. Traverse left to a bolt in a bowl. Smear left to the thin beginning of a small corner--the exposed crux for several 5.9 moves until the crack widens. Proceed to the two bolts of the third belay. The last pitch starts with some 5.8 past a bolt and then more or less straight up past sparse protection (some bolts, small cams, RPs) to the top. You need to wind a round a bit and be very cool and creative on this last pitch.
Location
This is on the beautiful clean wall to the right of the Tree Route. Identify by the interesting chopped up looking pinnacle about 300 feet up. Start in the sandy area the the base of the wall, behind some junipers, below and right of the class 4 crack system leading up to the Tree Route. Look for a lone bolt on the slab above, about 25 feet up. Descend by the Cowboy Route or the Red Nations rappels, or the Crevasse Route rappels.
Protection
RPs, rack of stoppers, cams to #3 Camelot. Take a set of tricams and I find #0 and #1 Black D microcams (1 each) to be the only thing that fits in the tiny flared corner at the very start of the crux, as well as nice on the last pitch. Take lots of single length runners and a couple of doubles as there is a lot of winding around.
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