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Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs
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Ventilator T 
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Ventilator 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Joe Cote, AL LaFleur Aug 1972
Page Views: 1,461
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Description 

Though it sees less traffic than its more moderate neighbors, Ventilator should definitely be on your to do list. It is a challenging, slabby climb that seems to have gotten more challenging over the years as useful holds have crumbled off, but overall the rock is nice the moves are fun and the pro is good. Well...except getting to that first bolt, that can be a bit scary. Basically, you have to do some cruxy climbing to gain the first bolt with a little ledge beneath you. Keep your head together and you will be fine.

Basically, you climb the first pitch of Bombardment, which is 5.6R, to a small ledge. Step about 10-15 feet right (place a few pieces in a crack on your way) until you are under the first bolt (an old but solid ring bolt). Just follow the bolts up the slab, then break right to a short crack and in to a gully which is followed to the tree ledge below the Barber Wall.


Location 

15 feet right of Bombardment (5.8). Accessed from the ledge atop the first pitch of that route.


Protection 

Draws and a few pieces of trad gear. Belay from trees above.



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By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 6, 2010

The climbing is good but, this is a really poorly bolted route and always has been. It should be re-bolted in good style with the bolts in the right places.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 7, 2010

Was this originally rap bolted?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 7, 2010

It would be nice to move the first bolt, that's for sure. The climbing up to it is dangerous.

By Goodhue
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2010

Granted, I hung at each bolt on my way up this but, I will say I thought the bolt placements were okay. It's known as a spicy route, and sometimes spicy routes are exciting when you want something... spicy. I was able to work halfway up to the first bolt and hop off back on to the ledge to get my confidence up. So I guess what I want to say is, I don't think the bolting should be changed. But then again, I'm a touron from out of state.

By john strand
From: southern colo
May 13, 2013

not that good a line esp considering the now current start. should be re-done on lead IMO..

every bolt is in the wrong position, an early example of bad rap bolting

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Apr 28, 2014

I agree, John, and the climb has gotten harder over the years---a few tiny flakes have come off and all the skid marks make it kinda greasy. Getting to the first bolt is a bit of a head-trip, with ankle-tweaking potential. The first bolt should be about six inches left of where it is (or the holds should all be moved six inches to the right). If there is any humidity or the temperature is above 70, I'd skip this route (but I'm a bit of a wimp).